First time rotary user..help!

Ok, folks, I got a FLEX rotary due to arrive tomorrow (thanks Phil) and I will be using it this weekend. I have medium swirls I want to remove, the ones the FLEX DA did not remove. I have pretty much every Menzerna polish out there (except SIP, but I have 203) and lots and lots of pads. I have a 3M UK backing plate for the FLEX rotary as well. What combination would you use? Just throw some suggestions at me, I am open to try anything! I have a club meeting/car show Saturday and will be starting my detail around 6am Saturday morning, so I have a full 10 hours to get this car whipped into shape! Now, mind you, the car is pretty clean, I got my system down for everything but polishing. I am going to be using Concorso for the first time as well Saturday.

Thanks!

 

Who's pads do you have, that would make it easier to help you out.

 

Is this for the GT...I mean Monaro? Heh.

I would go with Power Finish and a Green Uber pad. Work it in on the lowest setting, then polish between 1200-1500 until the polish breaks down, then finish on the lowest speed again with little to no pressure. The goal is to not leave any buffer trails behind. If you do, you will need to finish with PO85RD and a Blue Uber pad. Same procedure.

Make sure to do at least an IPA wipedown before applying the Concorso, unless you have the SV Cleaner Fluid of course...

 

+1

Assuming LC pads, however, I'd say try a two-step approach, 203 with a green heavy polishing pad, followed by 85RD on a red/blue finessing pad to jewel the paint. You *might* need something in between, like 106 on a white pad, but could probably skip it depending on how nice the 203 finishes down.

 

I have a full compliment of LC and Uber pads.

 

What kind of car are you working on? Also, I just follow the good rule of thumb by using the least aggressive pad and polish combination and step up as necessary.

 

I would try the 106fa with a white pad then 85rd with a blue finishing pad and the black should have a ton of gloss.

 

It is a black 2004 GTO..err..Monaro conversion..lol

 

So, if I go 106 on a white pad, then 85RD on a blue pad, should I glaze with Black Hole or EZ Creme and seal with JS109 before doing the SV cleaner fluid?

 

No need for any glaze, just move on to the cleaner fluid and then your jet seal and I guess you are topping that with your Concorso.

 

Yep, so I will go that route and see what happens!

The problem I have found with just buying up everything I see is that I have an abundance of products and I really don't know how they work in concert with each other.

Wash & clay
106 - white pad
85RD - blue pad
SV cleaner fluid
JS109
Concorso

I will be sure to document my progress. Thanks for all the help!

 

You got it. I know what you are talking about. You will weed out the ones you don't think perform to your expectations and will settle in on just certain things to get the job done. Can't wait for the pics, especially since your car is black.

 

Ok, so I have a problem with this... The SV CF has heavy oils and stuff in it. I've always been of the impression that JS109 needs a clean surface (IPA wipedown) to properly bond with the paint.

If you've put down some SV CF then you should go straight to the SV wax. Do NOT use JS 109.

The heavy oils (per the SV website) say it's there to nourish the paint etc. This doesn't sound like something a sealant would like to bond too.

I'd either go:
a) Polish, IPA, Cleaner Fluid, Wax

or

b) Polish, IPA, Sealant, Wax.

 

There is nothing wrong with using Jet seal over CF, I have done it and so have many other members on here without any problems. Spyral will not have any problems with his course of action.

 

[The heavy oils (per the SV website) say it's there to nourish the paint etc. ]

A polymer (Urathane) clear coat doesn't need oils to norish it (a polymer is non-organic and chemically formulated)

"Paints require oils to feed / norish them" is an old myth. Based upon oil-based paint, nitrocellulose lacquer or enamel and older technology paints on classic vehicles required oils to keep them from becoming too brittle and cracking, water-based high solid/low solvent and urethane paints only require protection

 

So, being that I have water based modern paint, would I even need the SV CF?

 

You should either use CF or do a IPA wipedown before applying your lsp. You also be doing an IPA wipedown after each polishing step to ensure that the paint is completely corrected.

 

I have my IPA ready!

 

I think I see my next side by side test!

Half my hood prepared with SV CF and then JS109. The other half prepared with an IPA wipedown and JS109.

 

The rotary is here!



I think I am ready!