FG400 and über yellow, anything more aggressive?

I detailed a Jetta last night that has some really bad water spots/etching in the paint. I tried using a Megs microfiber pad and megs 105, but to be honest I never have luck with them. Maybe I am not using the correct process for MF pads? Anyway I spent about 15-20 min on half of the hood, the paint is very smooth but the water spots are still visible, any advice, or should I break out the 2500 grit?

 

if you want more cut and the microfiber pads didn't do it for you, you can try Surbuf Pads.

 

You have M101? It is more aggressive than M105 and FG400. Do you own a rotary? They are more suited to hard clear coats, and more powerful as well, but you always need to be careful due to being in the wrong hands is doing more harm than good. Have you tried to chemically cleaning it? What other methods have you attempted so far but no luck?






Limny

 

Good information Phil, I didn't even realize you sold these. That's what I get for not poking around more on your website.

 

I have not tried anything else as of yet. It's still pretty cold here and not a lot of jobs yet, I do this on the side. I will try the surbuff pads. I do not have 101 just 105. No rotary just my rupes. What do you mean by chemically cleaning it?

 

I never had much luck with M105, so I switched to FG400 with the Megs MF pads and it will get pretty much anything out

 

maybe I am using the wrong speed with the MF pads, what do you guys use as far as speed goes?

 

Speed 5-6 on the Griots 6, or 6 on my Rupes.. it also depends on the type of compound/polish you are using

 

Abd how long or how many times should I spend or do a panel with fg400? Would you do say a hood for 20 minutes then do it again or is one time enough before you go to a finer polish?

 

There is never a set amount of minutes to do anything in Detailing...
You need to pick a spot, work on it, continually observing what is happening, make adjustments, try different speeds, pressure, etc., and then when you have achieved your goal, then move to the next spot...

You should be trying to make the finish as perfect, glossy, and clear, with no defects, at every compounding/polishing stage, and then when you are satisfied with the finish, remember what you did, and repeat on the next part of the panel..

You want it all to look the same - have the same amount of correction, gloss, and clarity.. So be patient, be very observant, and concentrate on the panel..

The only thing I do not like about Surbuf pads is that since they were made for sanding wood, they are pretty aggressive on paint and leave you with steps to do after to get the gloss and clarity back..

I have had best luck with Lake Country purple foam wool pads and Meguiars 105 on really trashed paint, including Airplane paint, and for awhile now, I believe Lake Country has come out with a newer or improved version of these purple foam pads, which might even be better..

I bought Surbuf around 10 years ago or so, tried them, hated them, and put them in back of my cabinet where they still sit unused..

Dan F

 

I would say M101 and possible HD Adapt on a foamed wool pad from LC.
VW paint is hard and deep rids are tough to get out. B&S MF pads IMO are the best MF pads out there. MF is longer then any other pad and the foam backer pad is thick. They heat up just as much as any other MF pad but as far as durability I have used two orange and two blacks for 4 four corrections and on the 4th car I killed one of my black but it was my fault. The others are still cranking strong. Misting the pad with a QD or distilled water when you add more polish helps keep the spent polish loose in the pad and use compressed air when cleaning them it really helps cool them down. If you go with a foamed wool or want to continue with the MF I would pick up the vented Uber BP it will help disapate a lot of the heat build up.