For those who have used them, what is your favorite decontamination kit? I am thinking about ordering one for really bad cars.
I agree, I've been thinking about these kits for a wile now. Would like to give it a shot to see how good they really are. For those that have used it look forward to some feed back :waiting:
ABC all the way...... I use Part A, then Part B, and then I clay. I usually clay just because it gets that extra .001% after decont. It's a must in every toolkit IMO. Hell, think of it this way. It's get's less marring then clay.
Ive got the Valueguard, but have yet to try it out. Hope to get a chance to use it within the next month or so.
I did some research and I can't find a place to buy it without buying it by the gallon at the least, and thats 3 different steps. BTW is step C necessary? it seems like it's just a car shampoo.
Yes, C is a shampoo I think....I don't even use it, but it's somewhere on the shelves ;-) It's not that pricey on the grand scheme of things IMO. I tend to look at it not as a way of less marring on soft paint as well, if I need to clay. Different opinions on this, but I like it alot....
That's too bad, because I probably would never use that much. How are they applied? Sprayed on? I read on another forum that they are controversial, but I don't think it can hurt to incorporate it in with claying. PM me if you have them and maybe some 16oz bottles lying around.
Automotive International > Home Heres the site if you couldnt find it. I will have to look at the directions again to be sure of the procedures. I could scan and email them to you if your interested. I dont have any 16oz bottles...sorry.
Nica u will love the Valuguard decon, and as the rest said skip part C which is a soap but it is a PH balanced soap so use other equivalents. do NOT use those decon kits in direct sunlight!! Never seen the paint as clean as after a decon session, I can say it looks better than after polish, and only once a year.
For more information see article “Paint Decontamination ” in the Detailing School section of Detailing Bliss forum...
i can speak from a little experience here. I have used it twice or three times last summer. (yeah, it was 3 times) Anyway, it is a great system! I did a metallic blue Camaro with it the 1st time and it really helped to make the flake pop...the finsish was so dull the owner did not know it was metallic. There are very detailed instructions which I keep with the bottles...the main thing as mentioned above, is to do it OUT of the direct sunlight with cool metal. The product needs a certain dwell time window of a min and max time period to be effective. The other thing is that if you have any connections at a Ford dealer, you can get it through their Parts dep't as a re-badged Mastercraft product. Get a gallon of the A and B. I'd use DG soap or another PH balanced product in lieu of C if you can buy them separately. In all 3 cases, claying afterwards was not necessary...I checked all 3 to be sure and will continue to do so if I felt it would add to the finish. I am at work and don't have the link to the Ford part #'s but can get that later, if requested. Al-53 was the one who originally posted the link..you may find it if you do a search (which I also can't do at work). Hope that answers your questions. BTW, for application, the A goes on with a wash mitt (stored separately obviously) and the B with a pad that is like a very, very mild scouring pad (I know that sounds bad, but it isn't abrasive and I couldn't think of another analogy).
Whoa. That scour pad -- -aka white pas is way TOO abrasive IMO. For those not familiar, it has a texture like the *green-scrub* side of a kitchen sponge. I don't feel decontam is the wonderall as I generally still do clay when I neutralize *part c* . Clay still picks up that .0001 percent but then again, we're talking diminish remnants. And as others have stated, it needs to be in a done OUT OF SUNLIGHT.
The kit I recieved had two synthetic lambswool pads roughly 9x9 for parts A&B. I got mine last year......
If you have the ability to use it indoors you will love it. The dwell time is crucial. When it comes to heavy rail dust it makes very quick work of it. Knowing how you like to order things be sure to get 2 gallons of step A and one of step B to make sure they are both empty close to the same time. I have been putting step B on with my old polishing and compounding pads cut into chunks. It is cheap and works great without marring the finish.
