clayed with just water as lube ;(

So i was claying with water as a lube i forgot that i washed off all the soap and now my hood has some nasty scratches.

Look at the pictures you can see how badly i messed up, i need some help on what will be the best polish or sealant to make my car remove all the swirls etc.








thank you.

 

Do you have any pictures...?

Try using a clay lube or at the very least some very diluted soap (16:1), if not buy a gallon of Optimum No Rinse and dilute that, because lubrication is critical when claying.

 

hey i do have the lube iwas just thinking if i can do it with soap but forgot i washed the soap off. I just made pictures it looks nasty i need some help on the sealant.

 

Normally a 'pure sealant' will not remove swirling. You would need a polish like Menz SIP or 106ff or something similar combined with the right pad and it should remove most of these swirls. You are using a machine right?

Look at some of the pictures in the 'show and shine' section of the forum to get an idea of what products will remove those.

Yeah, next time, use lots and lots of lube and VERY light pressure when claying.

 

Remember, even with lube you can marr the paint. That's why I am always nervous about claying when I'm not polishing aftewards.

 

thank you guys for the help, the funny thing 1 week ago my car was at a " professional detail shop" and he only used 1 coat of sealant and said car is good , when i got home next day in the sun all the swirls stayed the same. waste of 160 bucks thats why once again i will only trust myself and yes i use porter cable.

Here is a list i made tell me if anything is not needed.

1. Menzerna Intensive Polish PO 91E via orange CCS
2. Menz 106ff via white CCS
3. jetseal109
4. P21S Carnuba Wax.

thank you.

 

i would get sip instead of the ip cause your infinity has a really hard clear coat.

have fun.

 

Get the whole Menzerna line... its always good to have them

 

those swirl marks can easily be removed with Porter cable providing you have the right tools,patience and time .. get 5.5" pads and work 2x2 small section and try less aggressive combo before you use more aggressive ones..

it takes a lot of time and effort and so do it right the first time..

 

If you are looking for inexpensive/yet effective clay solution try this:
1/3 oz of Poorboy's SS&S mix with 2 oz of DP 4-in-1 and mix with 30 oz of water...
I made it up myself after trying Pinnacle clay lube...But don't add more soap, as you will dry out your clay bar.

 

are you sure them webs was not there before you clayed the car? On black sometimes I get some marring on the paint nothing like that. The merzerna should work try 106 first then move up from there.:headbang:

 

i did have swirls but if you look closely you can see straight white lines deeper than the swirls.
Thx for the advice.

 

so i just ordered the Menzerna SIP and Menzerna Final Polish II

anything else i should get ? 106ff or the jetseal 109?

 

I hope I'm not just stating the obvious, but I don't think I'd start with SIP until I did a test run with something less aggressive. Those look pretty shallow and PS or another lighter polish may do the trick. You may end up having to go further, but why would you if you don't have to?

 

I don't know about it having hard paint. I am thinking it is pretty soft, but I did one forever ago.

 

i tried with a lighter polish and swirls still showed.

 

Diagnosis is the key; not guesswork; the most important first step in the process of paint surface renovation is diagnosing the paint surface; density of clear coat (hard or soft) or single stage paint, surface condition; severity of the scratches and the paint thickness available will dictate the choice and abrasiveness of polish / compound for correction or renovation level required or indeed possible. Before commencing polishing do a test panel on the car, once you have achieved the desired results with the chosen polish / pad combination proceed always keep in mind ‘use the least abrasive combination first’

a) For most paint correction PO 106 FA / 106 FF (LC White at 1200 RPM) and PO 85 D3.01 polishes (LC Blue foam pads at 1000 RPM) should be all you need.

b) Use PO S34A Power Gloss (LC Purple wool pad 1500 – 1800 RPM) for paint correction / renovation. Note: It has a short work time slow cut and tends to ‘dust’

Menzerna Polishes Methodology Parts I & II

Part I – Menzerna Polishes - Methodology Part I - Auto Geek Car Care, Car Wax and Auto Detailing Forum

Part II - Menzerna Polishes- Methodology Part II - Auto Geek Car Care, Car Wax and Auto Detailing Forum

 

I had the same experience with two different 'professional detail shops' and i too returned to doing things myself. Noticed you are also from NJ, you didn't use the place on shrewsbury ave near Red Bank did you?

I think what you state above should be fine, but as suggested i'd replace the IP with SIP and try 106FF w/ the white pad first. If that doesn't work move up until you find what works best. That's what i did on a 2001 bmw and it worked great: http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/f47/newbie-results-2001-330ci-3192.html

 

HEy i actually drove all the way to NY for about 1 hour to go to a detail shop that i made a website for. Never going there again in 5 hours all he did was wash my car, clay the hood used 1 layer of sealant and then used beeswax with boat wax mix. I left the place looking worse than i do with auto zone products.

Thank you for advice i see you used lots of products and time, is that necessary? i do not have a garage.

 

i skipped the glaze and wax, so what i did was already the bare minimum. doing this type of work without a garage will be very difficult, do you have a garage you can borrow from someone? maybe you can use a canopy but that's not ideal.

regarding how long it took, i'm sure others that have more experience and / or use a rotary - as opposed to the Flex - can do it in less time. but to get good results you need to be patient, especially w/ the SIP. if you have a time limit then maybe do a single step of polish w/ the 106FF and a white pad.