I recently moved to Lexington from Louisville, in an apartment on the second floor of a house with my boyfriend and a couple friends. Parking isn't limited, but I either can park in the backyard under a canopy of trees, or on the street under power lines. Either way, my car gets bird shit on it every day or two. I keep it waxed (currently Collinite 845+Autoglym HD), but I was wondering if there was anything else I could do to protect the paint from bird poo any more. I have ONR diluted at QD dilution that I use to get the bird poo off my car whenever I see it, but I was wondering if I could do anything else.
No offense but I had no idea you were a girl. Best of luck with the poo! Sent from my HTC Sensation using Tapatalk 2
He's gay (NoH8). But any ways. Sucks about the poo. The obvious is to try avoiding the trees and power lines, but that sounds unavoidable. I would just be sure the paint has a nice layer of any wax. Remember, LSPs are sacrificial. Doo doo etch is largely unavoidable but fortunately it should only etch the LSP coating. I also recommend you don't allow the spots to sit on the car and bake. Remove it as soon as possible.
Oh, good deal! Thank you for that correction. Please don't be offended by my comment. Sent from my HTC Sensation using Tapatalk 2
Use the least abrasive product first- 1. Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner) 2. Try to dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following; a) Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid) b) Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required) c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol. 3. Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner 4. Use detailing clay to remove any 'hard' surface granules 5. Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface 6. For CeramiClear or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; Super Intensive Polish / Nano Polish (105FF) or Final Finish Polish (106FA) 7. Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up 8. Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper
The best protection is just refresh your protection after every wash. I keep waterless washes (Ultima, PB, Adams) around to handle bird poo. If you can get them within a day or so they should be easy to remove although some have been known to etch quickly. Anything stronger than that and you will have to reapply protection. At work, the birds like to sit on the side mirrors for some reason.
I have my car sealed with menz power lock. Those dirty bird turds just wipe right off with zero effort. Id imagine pl topped with the 845 would be a good defense. I use that combo for the savage winter months here and it works very well
I have Opti Clean in a bottle for such occasions, not much to be preventive, other then maybe a car cover; or what others have said about refreshing the LSP. Sounds like you have limited options, but you are prepared.
PL no longer exists if topped with 845. Rusty, you've pretty much got the best protection you can get. The only thing better would be opti-coat/other permanent coating. Just wash the car regularly and you'll be fine. If you can get your hands on something made for bird dropping like AutoGlym bird wipes, it helps for the quick clean-ups.
Please pardon my ignorance for this question: what do you mean by the "PL no longer exists if topped with 845" statement? What is it about Collinite 845 that negates Menzerna Power Lock? I'd like to think that the 845 provides a sacrificial layer before anything hits the Power Lock, and PL then provides another line of defense.
The 845 is a very solvent heavy wax that pretty much dissolves anything underneath it. Topping the 845 with another wax is fine once the 845 has cured, but anything "before" it is pretty much a waste of product.
It's okay guys, no offense at all I love this community because of how accepting everyone is. Funny story about Opti-Coat...I applied it back in August, but I think I did something wrong...I didn't do a Dawn wash after the IPA wipedown and therefore the Opti-Coat is failing...when my paint is clean I can see where it still is and where it isn't on my paint. If you look up close it's kinda streaky looking. I literally have no money...like none at all right now, so I can't afford paint polishing stuff to remove the improperly applied Opti-Coat. I just applied a coat of 845 topped with Autoglym HD. I understand that with the Opti-Coat still clinging in some areas the durability won't be the best, but it's all I can do for now. Anyway as the summer goes on there seems to be less birds making a mess on my car, and I'm getting better at finding which parking spaces seem to attract the least bird poo. And I'll always keep my trusty bottle of ONR QD and a microfiber in my car with me
Be cognizant that there are no polymers, nanotechnology coatings or waxes that are acid-proof; they all only offer short-term resistance. The most pertinent factor is to have a layer of (sacrificial) protection between the acid and your paint surface. The second is to ensure that is removed and any residue is neutralized as soon as possible. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant, as this acts as a sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface plus the reapplication of the sacrificial barrier on a regular basis.
What's considered an organic wax? Perhaps carnauba waxes? An answer to my previous question in this thread about Collinite negating an already applied sealant suggests that Collinite isn't an organic wax.
Someone posted a while ago that they had talked with the folks at Colli and were told that even with the high solvent content, it wasn't enough to strip previous layers. Mnot sure if they were talking previous layers of 845 or if they meant layers of any other sealant.
2 layers of 845 always looks different than just 1. Putting a layer of 845 on top of sealant always looks different than than the wax itself or the sealant by itself. So to me that suggests that the previous layer is not removed. There's a few persons on DW that chime in with the same comments about layering 845 or putting it on top of a sealant is not possible everytime someone says that they have done it. I'm sure that it may reduce the first layer's thickness but it not like you are wiping Prepsol on the car. With Prepsol/Prep-all you're supposed to saturate the surface and let dwell for 1 minute for it work properly. Are you saying that a micro thin layer of 845 that flashes in a few seconds is more capable of being a true stripping sovent? Seems that their basis is always the solvent smell and that they have seen it remove tar spots. I have seen it remove tar spots and I've also seen it not remove tar spots. Probably depends on how baked in it is. All it really means is that there is a solvent in 845 that reacts with tar. Maybe if we get Collinite to add a coconut smell everyone will change their tune.
