audi brilliant black color. I'm about to ki ... buff myself.

First, hey Been a while since I posted. I've been lurking a lot.

I remember reading about this color a while back in one of phil's and dsms's write up. It was a huge paint to correct.

We recently picked up a nice 2007 audi A4 s-line quattro for the family. My wife didn't want to drive in a SUV believe it or not.

Anyways, how the HELL do you keep that finish from marring up?!?!

Here's what I did to correct the car:
-M105 on a orange LC pad.
-PowerFinish on a white LC pad
-P085Rd on a blue uber pad jeweled down to about 900rpm at the end.

Pulled the car out of the garage. The finish was really good. DIdn't see 100% correction but it was good enough for a DD.

Pulled the car back in the garade, whip out one of my fav wax, victoria yellow, proceed to put it on with a chemicalguys blue pad.

Pulled the car back out ... GARAHHHHHHHHHH what have I done! The finish is all marred up!!!!!!!

So I had to polish it out again. put wax again with a different application, SAME THING.

What gives? What's your secret? It's driving me nuts.

Thanks!

 

I think it was the blue chemical guys pad you used with a machine. I had a 2011 BB A4, I'm so glad I got rid of it.

 

I have not had that problem with my 04 Allroad, finish is hard as nails. Allthough I have been using either MPL then topping with AGHD or Blacklight and V7, and no problems at all.

 

I owned a brilliant black Audi for 3 years and it was a pain to deal with everytime I polished it.

Couple things to note, brill black is generally easy to marr (non metallic black, a given) yet the paint is on the hard side to correct. Only a handful of paints I have worked on have this problem of being both soft and hard and easy to marr.

During your correction use whatever gets the job done and dont worry about hazing or marring etc just yield a high correction level. For finishing I would use a DA and some menzerna 85rd or 106FA, work slower steady passes to refine the finish and then drop the speed and do a few lighter passes.

You should be using short nap non fluffly microfibers on this paint, the fluffly ones tend to get grabby and leave lint.

After correction when you do the IPA wipedown make sure you have plenty of water in the mix to keep the towel gliding smooth, again getting 1 towel grab on this paint and your in a bit of trouble.

I would stay away from waxes on this color also, go with a smooth on and off sealant you will save time and hassel. I had Collinite and Lusso Oro wax streak up on me and the smears were near impossible to remove without re-marring the paint. Also if you can use an acrylic glaze type product as a basecoat that should help the slickness and your sealant will work better/less likely to streak.

Do distilled water wipedowns after sealant has cured and you should be okay.

 

Exactly what I was looking for Thanks man! I'll go and try it this afternoon when the kids are asleep.

 

In my experience, lsp removal is the number one culprit for inducing marring, because you use pressure to try and get the product off smear free...as dsms said, using a sealant or just anything thats easy to remove without smearing is the best preventive measure to take.

Or, just get a BMW like me, cuz i cannot seem to mar my m3 paint haha

 

+1 for getting a BMW, my 135's paint may be bomb proof

 

Dr j, If i clay wirh griots clay and their speed shine, i couldn't mar if i wanted to

 

Brilliantschwartz is getting swirled if you look at it to long. I have one and it's impossible to keep swirl free. The first wash will mar it. Try to use a lsp that is easy to remove
such as a sealant like Menzerna power lock or similar.

I polished it with PO106FA and I manage to get out almost all the swirls and finish out perfectly with a rotary and a light polishing pad. Did a silicone remover wipe down and then coated it with G3 glasscoat and it looked like a mirror. Now, its a black mirror with some swirls but its sure shine and this was 4 months ago. The coating is holding up very good.

But if you want to keep it swirl free - add one coat of black hole or acrylic glaze II from Chemical guys once a month, they removed a lot of swirls on my paint until I corrected it.

Good luck - you're gonna need it

 

thanks for the replies people!

I've never use P0106FA before. I've always used P085RD. For this particular clear coat, what would you say works best?

 

Go for PO85RD if thats what you have in your garage.

 

Yup, that's the only final polish I have around. thx

 

I dont have an awesome german car like you guys, lol but i do have a Gloss black 2003 mach 1 mustang, i use Chemical guys light duty clay and their clay luber and its SLICK, no marring and great cleaning abilities, i do have marring on my car from using a mothers kit (never again) lol, i recently did a small section on my car yesterday, compounded with 105 and a orange uber pad, then 205 with a green, then finished with 85RD and a blue pad, i did probably 8 section passes with the menzerna, spread on 1 first, then a couple section passes on 4 then bumped in up to 5-6, im going to try in the future to finish my last couple jeweling passes on a lower speed. My paint doesn't mar super easy but you definitely have to be careful when buffing off wax, i did a layer of jetseal 109, then petes 53, the 53 wasnt the easiest to get off, i saw 1 or 2 very tiny scratches when i was done, i think from the MF i was using.

I feel bad for the audi owners tho, it has to be frustrating to do all that work just to mar it again.

 

The Alpine White on our 135i is hard as NAILS!

 

Perhaps this helps?

http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/show-shine/29392-2008-audi-a4-s-line-black.htm

 

Nice! I'm impressed just by the fact you went straight from yellow to green Looks like it finish down pretty well too!

My paint looked good in day light, until the sun showed up and all the marring and hologram started to show

 

You have no idea

 

Are you using a rotary or DA?

 

Rotary. I got myself a griot + D300 and pads to try out this weekend actually. Never really had good results with a DA to correct hardcore swirls and holograms.

 

You haven't thought of trying coatings like the CQuartz or Gtechniq C1? The silicate/quartz in it should be harder than the paint itself.


Kind regards,

Ebbe