Advice on how to tackle "scotch brite" scratches ...

Discussion in 'Compounds, Polishes, Paint Cleaners, and Glazes' started by GDAL, Sep 25, 2012.

  1. GDAL

    GDAL Super Moderator

    Guys,

    I did a demo last Saturday on a 2003 Frontier Crew Cab. The owner decided to tackle a few stains with a scotch brite pad and wants to repair/lessen the scratches. I managed to remove 70-80% of these sratches on my test spot with D300/M101 and Meg's MF pads (tons of pressure).

    The owner scheduled a detail session as soon as he saw the test spot results. I was wondering if it would be better (and faster) to wet-stand these areas before hitting them with a compound. IMO, the scotch brite scratches are equivalent to 1000-1500 grit. The paint readings are healthy (average 150 microns ... never been buffed) and the paint looks excellent for being 9 years old. I was thinking about hitting them with 2000 grit and then 3000 grit before compounding.

    Should follow this plan or just go straight to compounding? Other suggestions?
     
  2. 911Fanatic

    911Fanatic DB Pro Supporter

    I'd sand them first and follow up with your MF disc and 300/101 combo.
     
  3. GDAL

    GDAL Super Moderator

    Ken ... should I wet-sand in the opposite direction of the scotch brite marks to lessen the appearance of the deeper scratches? On some of the spots, he sanded in a circular motion.

    Thanks for the help.
     
  4. 911Fanatic

    911Fanatic DB Pro Supporter

    I would go across the scratches as you suggested.
     
  5. junebug

    junebug Jedi Nuba

    1500 grit, then compound, forget the 3000 unless you really want to, I did the same on a Honda Accord a lady used scotch brite pad on hood to remove bugs/bird poop.
     
  6. GDAL

    GDAL Super Moderator

    Thanks for the advice junebug ... i was able to remove the scratches without sanding. They were lighter than what I though. MF pads D300/M101 mix did the trick. Came out great.
     
  7. boredstudent3

    boredstudent3 Wax on..Wax off

    Thanks for following up G!

    in the OP you mentioned that only 70-80% of it came out with D300 and M101

    How did it differ in the rest of he correction such that you didn't need to sand?
     
  8. GDAL

    GDAL Super Moderator

    I was able to fully repair most of the affected areas. There were 2 or 3 areas where some RIDS still remained, but they were really faint. I didn't go further because I didn't want to compromise the clear thickness. The color (light metallic beige) helped a lot. Overall, I was able to achieve 80% correction on the entire vehicle. I didn't touch the tailgate because I got paint readings of 60-70 microns, Everything else got a 2-step.
     

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