Advice for an agressive claybar

Discussion in 'Pre Wash, Wash, Decon, Claying, Engine, Wheels, an' started by gpteitz, Sep 24, 2011.

  1. gpteitz

    gpteitz Virgin Detailer

    Looking for advice on an aggressive clay, please.

    I am detailing a 20-year-old, un-garaged, neglected Saab with single-stage white paint. The Mother's claybar (yellow) I have is not pulling out the contaminants, which look like tiny pin-pricks of rust, unless I spend 30 seconds per square inch. At that rate, it'll take me more than a weekend just to clay the car. If it matters, I am using ONR as a lubricant.

    Detailers Domain, where I have been buying most of my supplies, does not list an agressive clay (they list an Uber medium). Any suggestions on a clay brand/type and a source for it are appreciated. I am going the M105/M205 route after, so not concerned with marring due to the clay.

    Thanks...
     
  2. D&D Auto Detailing

    D&D Auto Detailing DB Forum Supporter

    You need a chemical cleaner such as an iron/ rust remover. Something like Iron Cut/ Iron X.
     
  3. mike aesthetica

    mike aesthetica Jedi Nuba

    Is the paint oxidized?

    If so, any clay bar, aggressive or not is going to shear off tons of that oxidation essentially making you waste your clay..and probably leaving a lot of contamination behind.


    While this is not that TYPICAL of a recommendation, I would get through the oxidation, then clay with your normal clay and decon..following up with your polishing steps as you would...

    Oxidation is a complete pain when dealing with serious contamination not to mention, any weaker liquid decon steps like IronX and IronCut will likely leave a little discoloring that you would need to compound away anyway before correcting the paintwork..
     
  4. gpteitz

    gpteitz Virgin Detailer

    Yes, the paint is heavily oxidized, and, you're right, the clay bar is pulling tons of oxidation, as shown by the whitish color of the ONR. Basically, I've done M105/M205/LSP to about half of the car, so going back and trying clay on a corrected panel is no big deal. If that doesn't do the trick, then I'll try the Iron Cut / Iron X.

    Thanks for the advice, guys.
     

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