Ok, so I have come to realize that sometimes I spend more time then required working on my 1-Steps by not being satisfied with the results 100%. My question is, how does everyone walk away from paintwork on 1-steps when it still has scratches left? I understand that sometimes one cannot chase every scratch out of a Daily Driver especially when you are only being paid for a 1-Step, but how do you not want to do a 2-Step to have a better end result for your name? Ex.
I asked this a couple months ago http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/compound-polishing/33365-correction.htm
I was forced to do it on a Honda Pilot I did the other day. I just made sure that the owner knew before hand that it wasn't guaranteed that I could take them out with just a one step. I also made sure to show him in process that they had been significantly reduced, but would still show up in the certain lighting. Then, since I was running ahead of schedule anyways, I took a purple foam wool pad to it with some compound, but they were just too deep and would need wet sanding to take out. So I hit it with my 1-step once again. He was still super impressed with the car.
I never recommend anything till I see the car. Then if they only want a 1 stage paint correction then just explain what results it will give.
Yes. I always do a 2-3 step on bad areas to get them out for the client though. You can even tell them it won't come out but for $25 extra it will, and it will only take you about ~10 more minutes, if that. My one step typically gets around 65-70% correction but I would rather put a little more work in and do that rather than just getting 50%. That's just me and my OCD though.
Ya OCD is a killer for me lol. I have gone the extra mile just to make a customer happy. Because word of mouth is great and can make or break you.
This will depend heavily on the type of car / clearcoat. I can easily get over 80% correction on a Dodge doing a one step (UBER Yellow / FG500) whereas getting even 50% on an Audi / GM /BMW will be almost impossible. I have recently changed my game plan when it comes to one steps. I found I was spending WAY too much time trying to get fantastic correction with a one step when the car really needed a two or three stage correction. Now for one steps, I will use my DA, Green pad and Power Finish. On most clears, this combo will in fact remove most swirls from improper washing. If a client wants better results, he has to pay for them.
Houston - Are you using a DA or Rotary on that car ? The clarity is very, very nice ! What I do is look at the Client and the car and determine what the Client is expecting to see based on pricing, and the condition of the paint, and set the Client's expectations right there. Since you looked at the car, you have an idea of the hardness, softness, or finickiness of the paint, right ? So you can convey what the end result will be based on the paint type, the equipment you are going to use (DA or Rotary), the product/s you have that will give you the best result for that price point, and then just go do it. Since I use a Rotary on every correction and I am fast, I still have time built in to make adjustments if needed, and have lots of proven products to choose from. I generally stick to Menzerna products but also have the Meguiars triplets, 101, 105 and 205, and I sometimes like to use Optimum Hyper Polish. In the end, pretty much everyone who brings in a vehicle to be Detailed by a good Detailer is going to be very pleased with whatever result they get for their money. They brought in a dirty, car wash swirled vehicle and took home a clean, shiny, smells good inside, engine looks new, wheels and tires never looked that good vehicle ! Who wouldn't be happy ? You guys are doing excellent work out there - dont over think this - it will drive you crazy ! Dan F
The way I see and sell it, a 1-step is simply used to clear up the paint. It is used to get rid of minor scratches, spider webbing, holograms, light hazing, water spots and generally just clean it up. The pictures you posted are the prefect example of this and is right on the money. You have to keep in mind that you are not correcting the paint for YOU. You are correcting it for someone who has a budget they would like to respect and who also drives and treats their cars in a less OCD manner than a high-end detailer (us here at DB ) Essentially - and I'm going to generalize here - the ones who are asking for/buying a 1-step just want you to "make it shiny and look new again" which is exactly what you are doing (and often more) if you consider the gaudy condition some cars come in BRAND NEW. It's a question of how you present it to the client. You need to set their expectations at the right place when presenting your product.
3401 DA with PowerFinish is what I used. The car overall is a huge improvement over what the dealership left behind, i'm just to OCD and you guys bring out some important info that can help me improve. I just wish the whole car reacted like this panel as there were some deep Rids around the car that were not removed as I didnt feel safe not having a paint gauge. Before After
Yep that's true. And that's the exact same combo I use most of the time, if it's a softer clear I'll use blue/203. If a section is bad, like the one posted, I'll typically just hit it 2-3 times to fix it up. Usually there's only 1-2 sections like that per car, if there's more I'll tell the client I'll need to charge them more.
That is beautiful work you are doing there mrd0t !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am so proud of you !!!!!!!!!!!!! You are rocking it down there in Hous-town ! You used 203s a very nice compound but sometimes when you want to step up the correcting a bit faster, there is always PO83 Super Intensive polish. A little more cut and maybe a little less gloss, I find it hard to tell the difference there, but it does cut a little quicker and better. Im doing a Cosmos Swartz Metallic Black 2001 740i Sport, and I tried 203s but it was not getting the correction I wanted quick enough, but PO83 Super Intensive Polish did it just fine. All this with a Makita 9227c and Lake Country Cyan Hydro Tech 5" pads. Dan F
I doubt if the guy's driving a pilot, he's gonna park his car in a sunny parking lot and examine for clear coat defects. Most people (people who aren't car enthusiasts) just want you to clean it and shine it up. That's why I don't work for people like that. Not saying they're subpar people lol not that at all, but I only work for car enthusiasts with imports and exotics who want 100% correction, otherwise it's not worth my time and doesn't pay well.
Step up to a wool pad such as LC foamed wool and you will get some nice correction out of PO203S. Follow up with a light polishing pad with PO203S and you'll have great results.
