Started Detailing..here with questions

Hey guys,

So I bought a bunch of stuff from Chris @ Glimmer Glass last week and figure I would start detailing my cars. I bought the Ultimate Detailing Machine (as my PC) and a bunch of Poorboy World products, among other things. Well, my mom just picked up a 2001 Honda Civic as her daily (gas mileage) and it had faded/terrible paint on it. I took the time over the weekend to properly wash it (2 bucket method, with Poorboys shampoo, etc) and clay bar it (Poorboys clay bar). After I did all of this I taped up the trim and went to work with the UDM. Now this is the first time I've ever used one, and it was on a civic so don't scold me if this was totally wrong. I started with a White Lake Country pad and some SSR1 to see if it would shine it up/remove some swirls. That really didn't do anything, so I just kept going to all different pads/ssr combinations until something looked like it did something. I ended up using a Yellow Lake Country pad and some SSR2.5, followed by a White Lake Country pad and some SSR2 on the whole car. It made the car shine, but under my garage lights there were still a ton of scratches in the paint. I ended up sealing it with Poorboys EX after all this. It looks 10 times better than how it did, the oxidized paint is now very shiny. I'm excited about how it turned out but I have my 95 M3 turbo, and 07 335i that I want to do next. They each have some swirling going on but I'm not sure if I can remove them since the routine I used before didn't remove swirls on the civic. What do you guys think I did wrong? The 335i is practically new paint, with swirls from the previous owner, so I don't want to mess anything up. I did have a couple questions through the whole civic process that might need to be answered:

1. I would get whatever SSR I was using, and put a skittle size amount around two opposing ends of the pad. Then start the UDM at "1" just to spread the SSRs around before I increased the speed. I worked in 2x2 sections around the whole car. When I increased the power to around 5-6 and increase the pressure I put down on the tool, it would seem like it boggs and doesn't spin barely at all. Is it better to do this, or should I have put no pressure on the head of the UDM and let it just spin freely?

2. For a brand new car, with just swirls, how would you do about detailing it with my pads and ssr? I have CCS yellow, black, white, and blue pads and all the different number SSRs (1,2,2.5, and 3). I don't want to do through the paint, but I also don't want to induce more machine scratching.

3. My other option with these cars is to take it to a professional local detailer. He quoted me $250 to do each of them. I know that this is definitely the easy way out, but since I bought all these supplies I think it would make sense to learn to use them so it was worth it.

What do you guys think? I appreciate any comments you may have.

Thanks,
Mike

 

I think there is a couple things you and anyone else really need to understand with this type of "beginner" setup. 1) Because this machine, product combo is the safest way to polish for new detailers, it requires MUCH patience. You have to be willing to move extremely slow and make several passes to eliminate swirls. This is why so many recommend taping off a 2' x 2' area and working that area for at least 4 minutes. It prevents you from working a too large area and not focusing the polishes on a concentrated area.

This is the draw back of this "safe" system. Sure you won't burn your paint or screw up the finish but you have to pay with many extra hours that you would not see with a rotary polisher.

/facts... now my opinion:
I think you should unless you are extremely mechanically, and technically challenged, you should hop right over to a safer wool/cutting polish combo on a rotary. Something like SYSTEM ONE X3 is just as safe as PC with SSR polishes. Wool stays cool and allows you to correct A LOT faster. I have now "indoctrinated" 13 people with this technique and all but one of them never picked up their PCs (UDMs) ever again.

 

1. What size pads are you using? You'd be surprised how much correcting power you can get out of 4" spot pads. If you work with 4" spot pads, it's definitely fine to put some pressure on the UDM. However, if you do that with 6" pads or larger, you won't get much correcting power out of your machine.
2. As a rule of thumb, always, start with your least aggressive method of polishing and work your way up. Be sure you start with a 2'x2' section so you know what kind of combination will work for the entire car.
3. I personally never went the easy way out. You really just have to be patient and put those hours under your belt with your machine. Then when you feel you're ready, you can step up to a rotary.

Good luck in your decision. :thumb:

 

I disagree with the above information. Rotary buffers are never as safe as a DA buffer; especially coupled with a wool pad.

 

Actually a wool pad is safe with a rotary and much easier to use than foam. Also people shouldn't be afraid of using a rotary it isn't that difficult to use, plus you can do so much more with it. If people decide to use the pc a 5.5 or 4 inch pads are the way to go if you want any correction.

 

I used a PC up until a couple of mo's ago and while I was able to get good results... it took FOREVER. Be patient and you'll get the results you are looking for.

I upgraded to the Flex 3401 and it is GREAT! -- still safe but much faster than the PC. (or UDM)

 

Thanks for all the replies guys. I was switching back and forth between 6" pads and 4" pads. Pretty much applying pressure to both of them. I think I added too much pressure, and didn't take my time as much as I should.

Also, do you guys tape up 2x2 sections all over the car? Then when you have totally corrected a section, you tape off another 2x2 section and work that section? That could help me too. I noticed on a couple panels I made an imaginary line for myself and wouldn't follow it every time.

I'm hesitant to use a wool pad/rotary from hearing how easy you can damage your paint. I'll stick with this for a little until I perfect it, then I'll step up.

 

I think this video shows just how easy it is. Complete newb, gets his trucks door swirl free in this video:

YouTube - Newbie with a rotary, a wool pad and SYSTEM ONE Polish

 

Yeah but videos are making me nuts. There is one on autogeek with a PC and some Pinnacle swirl removers that get a jet black truck shining great after about 5 minutes.

 

No need to tape the vehicle up in squares, just eyball it and you should be fine. Like I said before don't be afraid of the wool/rotary combo. it is alot more forgiving then foam/rotary and it really isn't that hard to catch on to. There are several members on here that can attest to that.

 

Just be sure you aren't removing more clear than you need to if you decide to go with a rotary. It may be easy to use a rotary but remember that it's just as easy to make a mistake. Keep that in mind.

 

Its not the machine that causes the burned paint, excess removal of clear, it is the operater of the tool. Be it a PC, Flex or a rotary any these can damage paint just a matter of how they are operated.

 

An interesting read on what removes more clear.. PC/Wet Sand/Rotary

Wetsanding vs. Rotary vs. PC, what removes more paint? (The answer may shock you) - Autopia.org

 

Earlier I mentioned rotary machines aren't as safe as DA machines; my intent wasn't to scare any person away from rotary buffers; however, it is not as safe as a DA machine. Persons should practice on scrap panels or delapidated vehicles before using a rotary on a vehicle which is well cared for. The aggressiveness of wool pads vary based upon the blend or lack of (i.e., 100% wool, 50/50 blend, etc). A 100% wool pad may be easier to manuever compared to a foam cutting pad; however, it will likely remove significantly more clearcoat. Additionally, after using wool, the person will have to polish the vehicle using a foam pad to remove wool inflicted swirls. The System One video accessible at Youtube.com is designed to help the organization market their pad and polish; so take that for what its worth. I recommend any person motivated enough to make the jump to a rotary to do so; however, use this forum or others to hook up with a person familiar with use of the machine to provide some basic training surrounding operation of it. Hope this helps.

 

I would agree that you should practice on a scrap piece with any tool. Pair up a yellow or orange pad on a pc and you can do just as much damage or more than a rotary with wool. I disagree that the wool will remove more clearcoat, once again foam can do the same. Yes most people will need to go to a foam pad to clean up after a wool pad, but on the other hand after using a foam pad for correction you need to follow up with another faom finishing pad so where is the difference. The wool cuts better, levels the paint better which gives you a better base to work with. Then you can go over it from there and when you are done you will have a better gloss level. Plus if you want to learn on a rotary wool is the way to go since it works alot smoother, it all depends on the product and pressure you use with wool or foam, and how long you stay in one area with either will determine whether damage will occur or not.

 

Yep, definitely an interested read. :thumb: