Rotary to PC

Wow...so today I had my buddies F150 up here for a detail. I endedup not having a rotary here, which I had been using for the last few details. let me tell you...once you use a rotary there is just no going back to a PC for cutting! I can't believe how long this takes to break down product compared to the rotary, it actually astounds me how slow it feels!

 

opps sorry, i totaly forgot about it. are you done his truck or is it a 2 day thing? cause if you need the rotary just give me a call

 

Yup, I agree. There is no way I'm going back to a PC or DA machine for that matter. I like my Cycle and all but only use it if I really have too.

Must have been a long detail, specially an F150

 

I was here at 7am, finished it...for the most part...by 330. I just put the final coat of LSP on it now. I'm ready for a nap!

 

I HATE using the PC now.

 

I think I might give mine to my friend...he doesn't detail much and is still in love with the PC. He won't ever use a rotary, he's really scared of them.

 

I am so glad I learned on a rotary many years ago. My only problem I have is the people who are afraid to use the pc because they might burn paint.

 

Yup, I was one of those people afraind of even bringing a polisher near my vehicles...the PC is great for people that are scared of burning paint but some people are stuck on there ways.

I say try seomthing new, if you don't try you'll never know but then again that's just me.

 

PC is paperweight.........

 

whats the difference? what does a porter cable do or not do?

pardon my ignorance, i've only ever used straight rotary, even when i was learning.

 

The PC is a random orbital. It has a more power than your average RO. I rotary on the other hand turns in one direction, versus the PC. Not orbiting gives the Rotary a better ability to break down polishes and correct the finish. The PC can be used to finishing work, but when you use it for correction, it takes forever! The RO action of the PC makes it hard to burn paint because it doesn't stay on one place long enough to burn paint. Most enthusiast detailers start out with the PC and then move to a rotary. A rotary isn't even that hard, but people get really paranoid about how fast a rotary can burn paint.

 

The funny thing is that even if you try to burn paint with a rotary it still takes time, it's not smething that happens instantly. Swirl mark, I've tried to put swirl mark and I haven't been able to...I need too move the rotary faster but when I'm moving it fast I think it's fast enough and it's not...odd huh here I am trying to put swirl marks and others that think that are doing a fine job leave swirl marks mmmmm how ironic.

 

I had the joy of being able to test the limits of a rotary...

There was a dealer demo that had a nasty gash on the front bumper corner, and i damn well knew they were going to need to send it over to the body shop, so i kinda leaned my weight against it and it was enough... was a plastic bumper however...

 

I use both my rotary and UDM when doing a job. Use the rotary for correction and the other for polish/glaze. Seems to work well for me.

 

I use both. I start the correction with the rotary then finish the job with the PC/UDM. I can get a flawless finish with the Rotary with due care but when I use both I get a flawless finish every time. Pre-Wax and Wax/sealant are alway done with the PC/UDM. I actually use three machines. My Hitachi Rotary, my UDM with 6" pads and my PC with 4" pads. This way I dont have to change backing plates.

 

Nica, use a wool pad at 1500, and use power gloss. That will put swirl marks in the paint. That will give you a chance to try different products/methods for correction.

 

Oh yes your right, I've done that...that combo works wicked for some serious corrections, it totally levels the paint...I just can't remember swirl makrs?...I'm sure they were there...mmm...I hope I get a nother vheicle that's in bad shape to try this out...I just finished one that I could have used this method but I went another route..darn :wall:

 

same for me, I think they are a good combo

 

Only if the rotary buffers were less expensive, I would give it a try...

Anyone in for a group buy?? =)

 

(Raises hand) I've done it. I've gotten strike through. Of course, this was on old Toyota green clearcoat. Green is the hardest color to "stand the test of time" in my opinion. Something about the pigmants seem to make it more succeptable to oxadizing.

I still use the PC, but it's clear that I need to get a Makita. It does take forever to polish. I'm pretty sure in the spring, I'll get one to initiate the end-of-winder paint corrections on the cars.