Please recommend a good wax for my white Honda

Hi, my name is Trisha and I came across this site meanwhile I was searching google for some info regarding my 2001 white honda accord. I posted on Autogeek about 2 months ago b/c I had some serious issues with my paint. I found out that my car is not clearcoated which I think could be the cause of my problem.

I have owned my car for 4 years and as much as I love my car, I hate the paint problems and aggravation it has caused me to feel. I am not someone who neglected their car ever. I used to take it to the local car wash for a wax once before winter and once before summertime and my car paint seemed to hold up well until a year ago when I noticed I had dirt that was stuck in the paint and regardless how much you would clean the car, it would not come out unless you waxed it. I live on Long Island and my car is a daily driver and has never been garaged since I've owned it. That's why I thought waxing it 2x per year would be okay. Anyway, after I noticed my car getting these wavy looking dirt spots and lines, I decided to take my car to a guy called Charlie Simoniz. He was known in my town for years and one of the best auto detailers. At the time I took the car to him, last May, he was about 80 years old (i'm not kidding). But, this guy enjoyed what he did so I said hey, I'll pay the $200 to have only the exterior done. He told me that he was going to clay the car and then handwax it. Well, I got the car back that day and to be honest with you, it looked cleaner but you could still see the dirt in the paint in certain areas. I was extremely disappointed but didn't go back to him b/c I felt terrible b/c of his age and I am sure he worked really hard on my car.

After Charlie Simoniz did my car, my husband went over my car with Mother's Cleaner wax and then waxed over it. That lasted for about 2 weeks, no joke. Then my father went over it with NuFinish (he swears by it.lol). I have to say, NuFinish held up the longest. I'd say about 5 months. Back in April of this year, my car started looking crappy again, so I took it to the local car wash to get it waxed. I told them they would have to really do a good wax to get the car clean as that's what was taking off the dirt all these times (so I thought). Well,I got it back and it didn't look terrible but if you looked at it closesly, you could still see the dirt in the paint. So, I went onto the Autogeek website and posted up some pics there and asked everyone for their opinion. They suggested that I try Klasse All In One and Duragloss over that. I wanted to get my car looking nice ASAP b/c it really looked terrible after 3 weeks of my last wax and I was embarassed to drive it around. So, my husband and I used Mother's Cleaner Wax and then used Liquid Glass Polish over it (my father used iton all his sports cars when I was younger and I knew it was highly regarded back then). The car looked really nice when we were done with it but my husband was doubtful b/c of everything I've gone through with the paint condition of this car. Me and my dad applied a second coat of Liquid Glass a week later. The car held up for about a month or so and then strated to look bad again. It's kind of like when it rains, the wax just disappears and also, if you wash the car once, it removes the wax. I was washing the car at home with Liquid Glass car wash concentrate.

Finally, I couldnt' take it anymore. I was at the point I wanted to paint the care, I took it to a local body shop that I've used in the past and showed the owner my car. I told him the car was waxed 3 weeks ago. He couldn't believe it b/c of the way it looked and if you ran your hand across the paint, it felt like there was NO wax left after everything I did in the past 3 weeks (waxed it 2x). He recommended I have the car fully detailed which he explained that the car needed to be buffed with compound to bring out the white color of the car and also to flatten out the waves in the paint. He also informed me that white cars are not clearcoated. I was skeptical about getting this done but at this point, I'd try anything. This was 3 weeks ago. These are the steps that the detail place took on my car:

Exterior Wash
Clay Magic
Compound (with buffer) & Polish (not sure if buffer was used)
Dress All Rubber Molding
Trunk Cleaned & Vacuumed
Clean Windows Inside & Out
Vacuum Interior
Clean & Treat Leather
Detail Dash & Console
Steam Clean Carpets & Upholstery
Hand Glaze & Carnuba Paste Wax/Teflon
Rims Detailed & Black Magic Tire Shine

I must say, after I got my car back, it looked awesome. I haven't seen it look that good in years and I fell totally back in love with my car. I called the place to tell them what a great job they did and also asked them if I should wax over it right away. They said there was no need too but when it rains, I should rinse my car off this way the sun doesn't bake the water spots into my car b/c it causes etching which I believe is what was happenign with my car before I had this detail done. I think there was a lot of etching and also apparently all the times I was having it waxed, the dirt was being waxed into the paint. But now, after a compound and everything they did above, my car looked mint.

This brings us to the present, sorry this is so long! I washed my car 2x with my Liquid Glass Concentrate cleaner since I got it back from the detailer and rinsed the car off with water everytime after it rained and would drive my car on the highway this way the water would dry. The reason why I washed it a 2nd time is b/c this past weekend, we had some severe thunderstorms and rain here (crazy weather) and I noticed that I had dark lines coming from the back of my trunk down the bumper like I used too before I had it detailed last. So, I washed my car a 2nd time last night and I have noticed that I have a few spots on my hood where it looks like those brown spots I had are developing again! I don't know what else to do. I am lost and so upset. If anyone can suggest a wax or anything that will withstand the elements outside longer than 3 weeks, I would really appreciate it. I am scared though that if I wax it like in the past, the wax will just come off real quick kind of like when it rains, it just disappears. I feel like my paint just doesn't want to hold anything and it's defective. Has anyone ever heard of this? When I went to Autogeeks to talk to them last (before my recent detail), they told me if I had the car buffed with compound and the hand buffer, everything would be fine but in reality, it's not b/c my car is starting to hold dirt again. Can any of you explain this to me? I've heard of Collinite for cars and was thinking of using that but I really am lost at this point. As much as I want my car to look shiny, I care more about how the paint is holding up in general so if anyone can recommend a polish or wax that will withstand the element for more than 2-3 weeks, that would be great. I have to say, I really thought Liquid Glass would work for me after everything I heard about it when I was younger but I was disappointed by that as well. If I wax my car again, does it need to be buffed again b/c it's holding dirt already? Would I need to use a cleaner's wax. I have to say, I don't mind waxing a car every 5 mos. or so but every 2-3 weeks is just insane. I live by a train station so I am assuming that it doesn't help me with the train dust but I park my car in front of a building that blocks the tracks. I am really lost here and would really appreciate it if anyone can help me. Thank you and I apologize that this post is super long.

 

First off Trisha, welcome to Detailing Bliss!

Quite a first post I must say, but lots of information is a good thing to determine the root cause of any problem.

Based on your description of the spots being small/brown (rust colored maybe?), living in close vicinity to a train station and with the vehicle being white I'd have to say that all those spots are actually bits of rail dust that have bonded to your paint surface.

The claying process undertaken during the last detail actually removed the corroded top portion of the containment but not necessarily the entire particle. So after a number of weeks the iron dust "bloomed" again so to speak which caused this little spots to reappear all over your vehicle. What I'd recommend is that you try and find a detailer (there are several in the NYC area that are on this board) to evaluate your vehicle and correct/protect the finish. The process will probably include the use of a decontamination kit which are much more effective at removing the entire contaminant particle than clay.

I have limited experience with Teflon-based/infused products but I've found they don't last very long whatsoever and they're a pain to apply/remove. Collinite makes excellent products and I've found 845 to last upwards of 2.5 months with weekly washes on paint with the proper preparation (polished, clayed etc.).

Couple of questions:

Are you following the dilution ratio for the Liquid Glass Wash concentrate?

Would it be possible to get photos of these brown spots, those dark lines and of water sheeting/beading on the paint surface after a wash?

When you waxed in the past did the applicator turn dark brown/black by the time you were done?



Hope this helps

 

Hi Charlie, thank you so much for resonding. I have attached a few pictures that I posted on autogeek's website a few months ago prior to my recent detail. If you look closely you can see the lines that look like dirt on the paint. I do not have any pics of the small round brownish looking spots but I do know that they develop after it rains. I believe they are getting etched into my paint. I know I had these spots a few years ago before I lived in my current home and I did not live by a train at that time. I remember they formed on my trunk and nobody knew what they were but my father and I compunded them out. I didn't nearly have as much on my car back then as my car develops now. During my lunch hour today I will try to take a pic of the new spot that has formed on my car. Hopefully my camera phone will be clear enough. As for beading when it rains or when I wash it, after I got it back from the detail, the water was like a sheet and just ran off the car and if there was any left, it beaded nicely. Also, the paint finish was super smooth. It's funny b/c I loved running my hand over the paint to feel how smooth it was. Before I washed the car last night, I could feel that the paint wasn't as smooth and like there was small particles left on the finish. After washing it and driving it this morning, it felt the same way and it also doesn't feel as smooth. I can tell that there really isn't much wax left on the car. When I washed it last night, the water did not nearly bead as much as it did a few weeks ago after the detail. I have read that carnuba wax does not last long. Yet, I didn't think it would wash off this quickly (within 3 weeks).

When I use the car wash concentrate, I add a capful like the directions say and I fill this huge bucket up with water so I am assuming most of it is water.

Yes, everytime I waxed the car previous before this detail, the applicator would turn black and I would have to throw it away and use another one. I think I went through 3 of them and when my dad and I waxed it, we had to go through a lot of terry cloth towels. It was insane!

Thanks so much for your help. I've been thinking of selling my car so I don't have to deal with this headache but I want to buy a house soon and I don't want to take out a car loan until after I move into a new home. I appreciate your time. I hope someone can explain to me what is going on with this car. I know there is a company not too far from me who could wetsand my car but they want like $600 and I've already spent so much on the car that I have a fear that after spending that money that won't work either. My husband has just about had it with this car and he says that I should just give up on it but I care about my car and I am not the type to let something turn into garbage.

As for the Collinite, since I've had it compounded, clayed, polished, waxed, do you think I need to get any of this done again before I wax it with Collinite? I was thinking of trying the 476S Double Wax but I've heard good things about the 845 and 915 as well.

I do know when I called the detailing place that did my car recently, I asked them if I should use anything special on my car and they said they used a Carnuba wax, nothing special. Do you think that after the really bad rain storm I had on LI this past weekend that would cause the Carnuba to disappear so quickly? It rained all day and night. It was a really, really bad storm. Crazy heavy downpouring and lightning. I am just trying to come up with a reason why this would happen so quickly after it looked so awesome after the huge detail they did on the car. Thanks again for your help and I will try to get a pic of the brown spot I am speaking about today.

Update: I have added a pic of a few spots (last pic) on my car. It looks pretty dirty but I just washed the car last night. You'd never know it though. :crash:

 

Sounds like your having quite the time keeping your vehicle looking clean.

As I read through your first post I thought, yea that was me a couple of years ago lol.

Any who here is my opinion.

Like Charlies02GLS asked perhaps your dilution ration of Liquid Glass is a bit too strong, I've never used that particular product so I don't know how strong it is. Perhaps changing the shampoo to something more like a Meg's Gold Class Shampoo, well just a suggestion.

If your vehicle is single stage paint and considering it's white, why not use a sealant to protect it. Duragloss is a great product and it will last a long time as well, also if you'd like you can top Duragloss sealants with a wax.

It also sounds like your getting a significant amount of contamination from the train station, so the waxes lasting only weeks sounds about right that's why I would recommend a sealant, as sealants will last much longer then a wax will.

Oh also be careful how often you get the vehicle polished, as every time your polishing your removing microns of paint from the vehicle, specially if it's single stage paint. Perhaps a light polish would do fine but once it's polished a good sealant will offer better protection.

Now before you go and purchase any products, do a bit of reading or ask other members there opinion about the particular product your about to purchase. Don't get caught up on hype of a product, see what others experience has been with an item.

Well just my :2cents: I too would love to see pictures of the vehicle and the spots you mention.

Oh and almost forgot, welcome to Detailing Bliss and feel free to ask questions, we love questions around here :thumb:

 

Hey Nica, thanks for the reply. I actually posted up a few pics in my post before yours. Maybe we were crossing posts. LOL.. Anyway, I never thought that the train could ruin my car so much! I've only lived there for 3 years. Now I am thinking of getting a car cover but to be honest with you, this is my daily driver and to keep taking the cover on and off every time I left the house would be a hassle.

I definitely am going to try to get some info on products from here before I purchase anything else. I know I was informed about hte Collinite last time.

I understand what you are saying about a sealant under the wax but the issue is that my dad and my husband are so tired of dealing with this car that I don't think they will do 2 stages for me. I guess I'd have to find someone and pay them. I really don't know what else to do and I am even scared to pay more money b/c well, I 've spent a lot alrady.

Thanks for your time and help. I appreciate it.

 

Nica wasnt saying you needed to apply a wax over a sealant.....its just an option you have with a sealant. You will be fine with just a sealant. Zaino or Duragloss would be the two I would suggest.

 

Duragloss 501 followed by duragloss 105 is a combo that always makes white vehicles I do bling!!!

 

Thank you for all your replies. I spoke to my husband and told him what all of you suggested. I think he's just about had it with my car and just has no faith and he seems to think I have a bad paint job.

Just out of curiousity, have any of you heard my complaint before? Am I the only dealing with a car that needs to be waxed every 2-3 weeks before the wax disappears?

As for the Duragloss, is that a really strong durable product that would last a few months? I only ask this b/c nothing that I've used in the past has bonded with my paint for more than 2 weeks.

Also, if I use a sealant, I guess it's like extra protection, right? Now, if I decide to do that, can you tell me what steps I would have to take in the order it should be done?

I just don't understand how after I got the previous detail (3 weeks ago) my car could do this. I mean I had my car buffed with compound with the machine, clayed, polished and waxed. Shouldn't this stuff last longer than 3 weeks?

I know someone mentioned to be careful with polishers, etc. I get worried about that as well. I don't want to keep applying compound and cleaner wax b/c I get worried that I will remove all my paint.

Sometimes I think I'm just better off getting a paint job but when I think about the cost and the year of my car I think twice and ask myself, is it really worth it?

Please let me know if any of you have ever heard of the issues I am dealing with my car. I'd like to know if this is a common issue or is it just my car.

Thanks again.

 

Maybe you can find a professional in your area to properly do the job for you? Where are you located?

 

Hi bigpoppa, I am located on Long Island (Nassau County). Do you know of anyone who does this in my area? I know there is a place in Mineola but they told me if it needs to be wetsanded, it would cost like $650. I thought that was a lot.

Thanks for your help.

 

Outside of all that was mentioned it sounds like your car needs a paint decontamination wash like the Value Gard ABC or FK1 systems and probably good polishing. After that the Duragloss 501/105 combo or the FK1 2180/1000P combo would be what I would look into.

 

I am sure there are people on LI here, if not, you could check Autopia.org in their regionals forum, there would definitely be someone in LI there.

I'm thinking that the paint has oxidation or contaminants on there that is just preventing the wax or sealer from bonding. Once this is cleaned up with clay or a paint cleaner, it should last fine (although you may have mentioned that being done already, sorry I didn't read through the whole post).

I would definitely have a well known pro look at it (someone from one of the detailing sites), they will tell you if it can be fixed or if it is a more serious problem, like paint failure.

 

Do you mind me asking if this stuff is harsh? I am scared that I am going to ruin the paint even more. Would I have to do this myself or do you know if some places use this that I'd be able to take the car too?

Do you really think this would clear up my issue? I am at a loss right now. I was thinking about checking into wetsanding the car but would that even make a difference?

Thanks for your help.

 

I checked Autopia.org like you mentioned and it seems like there is only one company that details and when I read over what they do, it sounds like the same thing I just had done to my car. I get really scared if someone says to compound it again b/c in reality, who knows how thin my paint is right now.

Someone mentioned to use a paint decotamination system but I've never heard of this.

I know you mentioned in your last post about using clay or a paint cleaner and I've used both in the past and the wax still never sticks to the car. It does until it rains.

I plan on going back to the body shop who recommended my detail last time and show them how the car looks after 3 weeks. Maybe they can suggest something else. I really don't know.

Thank you for your help. I appreciate it.

 

For a single stage paint, I'd do a base of a good glaze (RMG, GEPC, etc), then follow it up with Collinite 476. Remember when applying Collinite that you want it T H I N. Applying it too thick will make it hard to remove.

Oil based glazes really work well on single stage paints. IMHO, glaze/wax will keep your single stage paint looking better (and for a longer time) than a sealant will. Just an opinion...

 

Can you explin your opinion in more detail superbee? Why does wax last longer than a sealant on SS than BC/CC?

 

I actually just called the shop I take my car too get maintained at. They only work on Honda and Acura's. They explained to me that basically, after a Honda is 5 years old, they develop paint issues as mine has. He told me he also has a white accord and is having a lot of issues but has basically given up. He basically told me I would need to get the car painted again if I wanted to fix it. I am really starting to believe this but to pay $4k for a car that is a 2001, I don't think it's worth it. I am really starting to lose faith.

Maybe I will try the Collinite as mentioned in a prior post and if that doesn't work then I really don't know what else to do. I thought about the paint decontaminant stuff but I'm not really sure.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

Superbee, thanks for the advice. I think I am going to try this. Can you please tell me what RMG or GEPC is? I understand it's a glaze but what are the exact brands? Do you know for a fact that Collinite 476 will stick to an oil based glaze? I'd hate to do all this and then find out that the Collinite doesn't bond to the glaze. Also, where can I purchase the glaze from? Local store or online?

Oh yeah, one more question...since my car is already having issues with rain spots being stuck in the paint and a car wash won't remove it and, I just had it compounded and clayed 3 weeks ago, can I just wax over the paint the way it is after I wash it? Basically after washing it, the dirt will still be embedded in the paint. What do you suggest?

Thanks so much.

 

Finish Kare FK1 1119 / 883 Paint Decontamination System

 

Phil is located in Englewood Cliffs NJ. He's also on this forum (among others) and is a terrific guy to deal with. I'd definitely think about setting up an inspection with him before taking it to a shop that insists the vehicle needs to be wetsanded to correct the defects or take the risk of getting it re-sprayed.

His username on this forum is "detailersdomain".