Fresh off the lot: What should I do?

Discussion in 'Compounds, Polishes, Paint Cleaners, and Glazes' started by jnicklo, Feb 10, 2014.

  1. jnicklo

    jnicklo New Member

    As stated in a few other threads I posted, I just picked up a brand spanking new 2014 Ford Fusion in Dark Sterling Grey.

    I definitely think the car needs to be clayed. I'm curious though, would the new paint truly benefit from a polish with my Porter Cable polisher? If so, what products should I be using? I have a few foam pads leftover from when I did my Mustang last year however I have absolutely no polishes or sealers left.

    Also, instead of posting yet another thread, what LSP should I use? I've got about 1/2 a can of Pinnacle Signature Series left but to be honest, I was never thrilled with it when I used it on my Mustang.

    (Note: the car is much darker in person, just took a crappy iPhone shot with the sun glaring on it)

    [​IMG]
     
  2. kyle butler

    kyle butler Birth of a Detailer

    I guess it depends on the amount of damage. Id strip off any wax/glaze/sealant that the dealer applied and have a nice look at it and go from there.

    Im sure it will need a good decon as its been sitting in a lot for a while, but as for correction its hard to say until you get it stripped
     
  3. jnicklo

    jnicklo New Member

    Any suggestions on what to use/do for decon?
     
  4. kyle butler

    kyle butler Birth of a Detailer

    Depends on how far you want to go i suppose. Iron-X and Clay bar are always a good place to start.

    Check out the pro section and check out their process too!.
     
  5. jnicklo

    jnicklo New Member

    I've been watching some of the videos and to be honest, a lot of that stuff is very overwhelming. Same for the products. I know it's technique > products but a lot of times I'm not sure of what product(s) can harm my car's paint. For instance, until I read the wheel cleaning thread, I didn't have a single clue about pH levels.
     
  6. Frankastic

    Frankastic Detail Photographer

    Welcome to DB and Congrats on your new ride. I like how the new Fords are looking.


    After decon if you see some light swirls and like to take care of it, I would start with the Sonax paint cleaner and Net shield combo. The paint cleaner has some abrasives for cut and can be topped with net shield right on top. But if you have deep scratches, you may want to pick up a compound like Menz FG400 with MF pad to cut and finish down with Menz SF 4000 with Uber green pad, then IPA wipe for LSP.


    here's Sonax combo in action

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6pi6qKXdLo
     
    dschia likes this.
  7. jnicklo

    jnicklo New Member

    Thanks Franktastic.

    I did not see a wax used in the video so please correct me if I am wrong — if I don't need any major correction work, my process should be:

    1. Wash
    2. Iron-X
    3. Claybar
    4. Sonax Paint Cleaner
    5. Sonax Net Shield
    6. Wax

    Also, at what point does Quick Detail Spray come into play?
     
  8. MGEVOX

    MGEVOX New Member

    Net shield is a sealant no need to waste a wax on top of it. It beads like crazy and lasts longer than wax. I only use QD as a drying aid personally.
     
    Frankastic likes this.
  9. Frankastic

    Frankastic Detail Photographer

    Agree ;D
     
  10. jnicklo

    jnicklo New Member

    So I pretty much don't have to wax the car at all? Very nice. I watched the videos of people using Net Shield and it looked so easy.
     
  11. zerix

    zerix New Member

    Yeah you pretty much got the order correct there. Like others said, Sonax PNS is a great LSP, heres my car yesterday at 2 months:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QG4SAvcg-9M
     
  12. detailersdomain

    detailersdomain Administrator

    Yup Sonax Polymer Net Shield was the last step used.

    We have found some carnuabas will strip and take down some of the durability of the Sonax Polymer Net Shield.
     
  13. jnicklo

    jnicklo New Member

    Ok so I'm leaning towards the following products. Please feel free to make suggestions but I am trying to keep the price down and the orders will likely be placed on AutoGeek since they're local and I can just go pick up rather than pay shipping.

    Claybar: Meguire's/Mothers
    I've had these for a while now so once they're used up I'll switch to something else like the Nanoskin Fine Wash Mitt.

    Decon: Auto Finesse Iron Out
    A little nervous to use this stuff after watching the videos.

    Wash: SONAX Gloss Shampoo
    Considering Optimum No-Rinse as well, just not sure how it works.

    Wheels: P21S Wheel Cleaner Gel
    Considering SONAX's wheel cleaner or 1Z Einszett ColourTec too.

    Tire Dressing: Optimum Opti-Bond Gel
    Used this stuff on my Mustang and loved it. Sadly I'm all out.

    Interior: SONAX Dash Cleaner

    Leather: SONAX Leather Foam
    Have been using Pinnacle's Leather Cleaner/Conditioner for years so this will be an interesting change.

    Paint: SONAX Paint Cleaner

    LSP: SONAX Polymer Net Shield
    Really excited to try this stuff. Seems much fast to apply than Carnuba waxing.

    Applicators: CCS Euro Foam Hand Applicators (Red, Orange, Gold)
    Might need some guidance here.

    Cloths: I was leaning towards just getting this kit from AutoGeek since I'm pretty sure all of the Microfiber cloths I bought a few years ago are all ruined since my fiancé put them threw the wash with detergent then through the dryer on high heat with dryer sheets...cant fault her. She didn't know.

    Polishes: Menzerna FG400 + SF4500
    I will probably not need these right away since the car is brand new but I guess that depends on what I see on closer inspection. Haven't had time to really do a walkaround. Intend to do it this weekend after I wash it.


    Misc:
    - Pinnacle Microfiber Rejuvenator (if I don't buy the kit from above)
    - AutoGeek Quart Foamaster Gun (always wanted one of these!)
    - 5 Gallon Wash Bucket System with Dolly



    ALREADY HAVE:
    - Porter Cable 7424 XP (need to check which pads I have left)
    - Pinnacle Signature Series II Wax
    - Grid Guard
    - SpeedMaster Wheel Brush
    - 8 inch Montana Original Boar’s Hair Wheel Brush
    - Vinyl & Leather Scrub Brush from Pinnacle
    - The Bone Wash Sponge (may need to replace)
    - Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Pad (love this thing!)
     
  14. jnicklo

    jnicklo New Member

    Just saw this on AutoGeek.

    The car isn't even a week old. Should I go from Decon straight to LSP or does it all depend on the need for possible correction/repair? I haven't had the chance to really walk around the car and inspect it completely.
     
  15. zerix

    zerix New Member

    Auto Finesse Iron Out is fine, so is Iron-X, either one will work fine. Don't feel uneasy about using it, they just smell awful, like rotten eggs, make sure you're outside, preferably on a non-windy day when applying and just realize you have to deal with the smell. Let it sit for 5 minutes or so then you CAN agitate it with something or just rinse it off with a pressure washer or strong stream of water. Rinse thoroughly.

    I would get some Optimum No Rinse for clay lube, it works great for that purpose.

    Sonax Gloss Shampoo has gotten good reviews but you have to use a lot more product that most of the other newer shampoos out of there. I'm a Sonax guy through and through as of late but I feel there are cheaper shampoos out there that will produce just as good or better results. Phil @ DD likes Adam's shampoo, I've had great results wth Optimum Car Wash and Duragloss 901/902 (902 is just the gallon version). Presently I'm using the Optimum and it works great with Polymer Net Shield. Optimum No Rinse is an excellent product to have around. You do what is called rinseless washes, just look it up on youtube and check them out. I put a small squirt of ONR in my traditional wash bucket as well to add to the lubricity. Also look up the Garry Dean Wash Method which I think is a great way to wash the car. I would recommend getting a Microfiber Madness Incredisponge or Incredimitt from CarPro for traditional washes and getting plenty of these microfibers for the Garry Dean method with ONR:

    http://theragcompany.com/SUPER-PLUSH-RUSH-16-x-16-Eagle-Edgeless-Orange-5-Pack-41012-1616-O-EL-5.htm

    I also have used these with the Garry Dean method (They also work great for waterless washes with Ultima Waterless Wash and with any kind of quick detailer, can also be used with polish removal, however I would recommend a smaller nap microfiber for that):

    http://www.microfibertech.com/Extra-Fluffy-Microfiber-Quick-Detail-Waterless-Wash-Cloth-700gsm-16x16.html

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ws59CEYUpC0

    Wheel cleaner, I've tried Sonax, 1Z, Wolfgang Uber, which are 3 color changing wheel cleaners and Sonax is definitely the best to me. The biggest problem with wheel cleaners is that they're not really for people who clean their cars a lot. You can get away with not using them weekly since only a weeks worth of brake dust on the wheels can be easily removed with just some car soap and various brushes. Now if you are to go a month or more without a wash then its advisable to use a wheel cleaner to make sure all the iron deposites are removed. However the BEST solution out of everything would be to remove the wheels from the car, clean them completely and cover them in Opti-Coat. This way they will be easy to clean. However if that's not an option you can just use Sonax Polymer Netshield on them and just reapply as needed.

    As far as applicators, the DD guys use the Crimson Hex-Grip pads to apply Polymer Net Shield. This way uses the least amount of product but you can always forego that and just spray it on the paint and wipe it off with a MF towel if you like.

    As far as Autogeek not recommending using the paint cleaner on a car under 1 year old, who knows the reasoning behind that. But if you're going to be buying FG400 and SF4000 I don't see the need for the paint cleaner as well. The paint cleaner from what I've learned recently is basically an all-in-one product, it cleans, corrects, and lays down some type of carnuba protection. Simply using Iron Out/Iron-X and claying should be plenty of decontamination, especially on a new car. I'd recommend buying a cheap LED flashlight, or going to a really well lit gas station at night and inspect the car through and through to see what kind of paint correction if anything needs to be done to the car. There could be a whole spectrum here, the car could be flawless, unlikely but it's possible, or it might only need a light polish. Either case just blindly buying FG400, SF4000, AND Sonax Paint Cleaner is just a waste of money. Recently a new product from 3D HD has come out called HD Adapt and it's basically a compound/polish in 1 and I've had excellent results on 2 cars one of which is hard paint and 1 is soft and both corrected and finished down in 1 step with my PC7424XP. The harder paint I used a Meguiars 5.5" Microfiber Cutting pad and the softer paint I used an Orange Lake Country 5.5" flat pad.

    Tire gel, I also use Opti-Bond and find it is very nice, however today I just got some CarPro PERL and will be trying that out. Can't go wrong with Opti-Bond though.

    Don't buy a dedicated microfiber detergent, just goto the store and buy All Free & Clear, it works just as well on microfibers.

    Also I would buy some Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer which is just a liquid spray version of Polymer Net Shield, you can use this to top up any areas after a wash if you feel the beading is falling off with Net Shield.
     
  16. jnicklo

    jnicklo New Member

    Thanks for the detailed post zerix. That helps a lot.

    In regards to the wheels, I don't think I'll be able to take them off since I don't have a floor jack (and I absolutely hate taking wheels on/off from all the time I spent doing it when I'd take my Mustang to the track — changing street wheels to Slicks setup was a PITA!). Both cars (Fusion and Mazda 3) have clear-coated, painted alloy wheels so I'm leaning towards the Sonax or P21S but wasn't aware I could use the Polymer Netshield on them. Very nice tip.


    As far as the Menzerna goes, if I can get away with just buying the much cheaper Sonax Paint Cleaner, I'd much rather do that. I need to inspect the car at the gas station like you said. I do have a Mazda 3 that I know is in need of some paint correction so I'm hoping that the Sonax Paint Cleaner + my Porter Cable can handle it. I'll likely take some photos and post the pictures on the forum to see what you guys suggest.

    I have a ton of Meguire's Quick Detail spray (2 bottles) plus a bottle of "Quick N Slick" from Croftgate USA that they sent me as a sample a few years ago so I think I'll hold off on the Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer until I've used up that stuff.
     
  17. jnicklo

    jnicklo New Member

    Inspected the car last night and noticed some very fine swirl marks on the roof and some on the hood. Not sure what product to use. The Mazda has some heavier swirl marks all over the car.
     
  18. Black Mamba

    Black Mamba New Member

    I am very happy to find not only does website of people who like to do it themselves, but also this thread as I purchased in November, a 2013 Toyota Sienna. With 86 miles on it and it still smells so great! But knowing that I need to get 10 years out of this vehicle, one thing I did not do myself a favor and is buying it in BLACK.

    I know that brings us into two different conversations,

    1) buying the right detailing products for a new car
    2) buying the right products for a BLACK vehicle

    As the original poster stated, I knew there were some things I needed to do both interior and exterior. But my goal is to keep this baby has glossy and protected as possible. I have no problems every three months going out for three or four hours spending time with her.

    After the rough winter, I've already done one washing with Maguires which seems to have the best reviews as a general cleaning soap. I used a clay bar kit with the correct lubricant which made it super smooth. And an ultimate wax which much to my surprise did not leave a lot of white or any color on my trim. My old Dodge for three years I still at turtle wax from somebody who got it on the trim. Made it very easy and loved the process and afterwards.

    Any suggestions though to be careful with the clear coat, it has leather interior and I've never really maintained that before in the past. The mirrors are actually a little bit scratched. Which I have found a few things.

    But I thought I would just post this here, and I'm sure you all would be helpful in pointing me to other threads or forums that would be useful. :) Thanks!
     

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