CR Spotless...Does this REALLY work?

Does anyone use CR Spotless systems anymore?

I wouldn't mind paying $450 for the peace of mind and also for the lack of frustration, but I wonder if It actually works, and if you wash cars frequently like I do (2 times a week), how long will the cartridges and resins last? Those things are ridiculously expensive to replace.

 

its works, but the resin is expensive to refill. I dunno how long it would last, because it all depends on how hard the water is coming out at your end.

 

Well, actually the water in my city was ranked some of the nation's cleanest water. (Greenville, SC) so I really don't think the resins would get used that fast, but I am more looking to use this when I go to my customers in Charleston, SC because Charleston has really bad well water at most houses.

 

Curious about this product as well. Does anybody have experience with them?

 

i wonder how close these are to the r.o. water filters they use for aquariums...they look identical and they are cheaper

 

iIRC Clean has nothing to do with it. It's the mineral content.

 

Have a link(url) in mind?

 

DI filters remove the minerals in the water. I've done some research on this prior to getting a DI filter myself, and the CR spotless filters are generally speaking just two 20" Pentek BigBlue filters with the refillable filter insert. You don't have to buy the filtration material from CR Spotless, other brands will do as well (e.g. Tulsion). So you can get it cheaper than buying the CR system, if you want to put it together yourself. If I was going to use the Pentek Big Blue filters I would do 3 or 4 20" filters in line, should give you 0ppm output in a long time, and great waterflow; enough to feed a Pressure Washer.

I use a single 11ltr. high pressure vessel at the moment, because I needed something trasportable. It runs fine and can feed the PW no problem.


Kind regards,

Ebbe

 

Deionizer (DI) - is water that has been passed through a column or membrane to remove ions present. If it is of the type used in homes, it is not truly a de-ionizer, removing all ions, but rather an ion exchange column that exchanges polyvalent ions such as magnesium (Mg2+) ++ and calcium ( Ca2+) ++ for Na+ ions. A de-ionizing column will not remove non-ionic organic substances from the water. De-ionized (DI) DI water is achieved by filling a cylinder with DI resin and connected it to a mains hard supply.

The DI resin will strip out all the minerals and impurities from the water leaving the water completely clean and 99.9% pure and is also very aggressive and mildly corrosive. It is therefore, excellent for cleaning most surfaces without the use of detergents. It is used / to wash windows and the static on the glass will be broken and therefore dirt would be less attracted - there is also no need for the use of detergents on the glass.


“Filtration Methods” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/137955-filtration-methods.html#post1465231

 

Yes it works. I have had one for a couple of years now and I love it. The water down here is pretty hard but not the worst I've seen. I used to wash my car with it every week, but that got expensive so I would wash with the regular water and rinse the car down at the need with the system. Now I'm back to just using the system the whole time. I wash my car and my girlfriends car every Friday(mine for sure, hers usually every week) it last about 14-15 washes with the long filters. When I would use it just for rinsing I would get more out of it, it's just so hot now and when I get home from detailing all week I just want to hurry and be done. This cuts out a crap load of time so it's nice.

 

Really appreciate the feedback everybody. Especially Ebbe and your budget DIY insights. I think I will go this route.

 

Ebbe-

Which of the Tulsion resins do you use? Resins for demineralization or water softening?

 

There was a link somewhere to a DIY CR Spotless. DIY system came out somewhat cheaper as far as I remember.

The question I have for people who have CR Spotless - do you guys wipe the car down after you wash and rinse the car? Can you let water dry by itself with no water marks left? That would save some time off the wash process, plus eliminate expensive towels...

 

I would like to update everyone who's been following this thread. I've had my CR big version from costco for about a month now, and have washed maybe 20 times with it. I must say, I am completely impressed with this product, and it does exactly what it advertises. I have washed multiple cars in direct South Carolina sun and let it air dry to test, and can truly say there is not spotting on the paint or glass or plastic trim. The meter still reads 000 probably b/c our water here in Greenville SC is already very soft. Also, I use it to do the entire process including wheels...just for maximum safety. Also, my customers LOVE LOVE LOVE that I use this on their cars....its actually quite a selling point for me, and its a huge peace of mind for my customers, it says a lot about the rest of my business as well, so it attracts new customers. So, this has payed for itself, and I love having it. To me, I cannot imagine not having this if you're really serious about a perfect finish.

 

Have had mine for over 4.5 years, works like a charm.............but not everycar do I use the CR through the whole wash just the final rinse unless I am stuck with no shade on a mobile job.

 

There are also several places to get replacement resin for pretty cheap too. I think this is where I got my last cubic foot.

http://www.windows101.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=74_176&products_id=1465

Another good idea is to test your water with a TDS meter ($10) so you have an idea of how fast you will burn through the resin. I'm at around 250-280ppm at my shop and my house is actually very good at around 180ppm.


Rasky

 

Update on the DIY....
Have been sourcing 20" big blue filter housings and finding the appropriate in-line TDS meter that can measure water in and out. I wanted to use housings with 1" in/out ports but can't find in-line meters that accommodate that size. I am worried that 3/4" ports or less will be too restrictive on water flow. I realize you don't need much flow to feed a PW, but would love to hear what size ports the CRspotless runs. TIA!

 

Yes, you need to keep the flow rate of the water below 3 gallons per minute to allow the resin to thoroughly clean the water. Pressure washers do a good job or use one of the supplied restrictors inserted into your hand held hose nozzle. Use the nozzle that comes with the unit, or any other nozzle that has a FLAT setting. Do not connect to a water source with greater than 40 PSI or 2 GPM on the smaller unit or 4 GPM on the larger unit.

Reason being that the numbers stated are the optimum performance ratings and if you exceed them, you run the risk of spotting since the water will go through the resin bed too fast.


Resin Depot - 800-460-9011 toll free USA and Canada, 818-786-0600 local and international, 818-786-2347 Fax http://www.apswater.com/shopexd.asp?id=5494&Product=MB-1_Mixed_Bed_Deionizer_Resin Free UPS shipping when able to ship via UPS and is in the continental USA

 

Thanks. looks like apswater doesn't carry the resin anymore. Too bad the free shipping would have been great because 1 cubic foot weight roughly 50lbs.

 

As Chad already said;
http://windows101.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=74_176&products_id=1465 is a good place to get resin cheap, these guys also sale bulk resin for a good price (and free shipping over $100) http://www.waterfilters.net/IONPLUS-MB-30-Mixed-Bed-DI-Resin.html#tablist. I've ordered it from both places, and been very satisfied with each.