My father I trust greatly (master auto body mechanic) says that my current car should never be touched with a buffer because the paint is extremely thin (09 honda fit). That put a seed in my head to not even thing about using one. Now I am purchasing a 2012 WRX and it is to be untouched my the dealer. My concern is for the new car I haven't received yet. I want it looking as new as the day I bought it so I saw someone on a forum "color correct" their car and then put a layer of Opti-Coat 2. which is what I'd like to do but I do not think I have the 1. Money to bring it to a shop to do it or 2. The amount of skill required to get it to my desired shine. Any help it greatly appreciated.... Below is the steps I usually use when washing my car well. Like the title says I am extremely new at this so any little tips would be great. Here are the steps I use when Giving it a thorough was/wax: ~Rinse ~Wash with Gold Class or Ultimate Wash & Wax (I used to use Black Magic because it smelled awesome and made my car look just as good but cannot find it in stores anymore). [using 2 bucket method] - Never letting all surfaces dry when washing. ~Dry with microfiber towels ~Clay bar... only moving the clay in the direction of how wind would travel over the car. Using Quick Detail as a lubricant ~Wax with NXT Generation Wax 2.0 by hand ---I picked up Ultimate Liquid Wax but haven't tried it out
There is no reason you couldn't use a "buffer" on MOST cars out there. Especially if you got a DA Polisher, you could polish that FIT right up! Yes, there is a learning curve to this stuff, but as long as you go slow and be careful, there is no REAL way you could do unrepairable, or expensive damage to the car. If you want ULTIMATE shine, and especially if you are going to apply opti-coat, you basically NEED a DA. I would recommend to most people out there to just go the route I did, jump in, take it easy and if you have access to a BEATER, just have fun with that first...practice your techniques and learn your tools... and just HAVE FUN! What I would recommend is: wash with whatever soap you want, maybe hyper wash and/or ONR for cost go get an electric leaf blower and some Uber super drying towels clay if needed, and the direction of the clay doesnt matter, I PREFER to cross it up so I am sure to get everything possible off. wax, there are some excellent, cheap options out there.if buying from Autozone or whatever, the easiest to find and best option is probably Megs Ultimate liquid, otherwise my top 3 would be [in no order, and all for different reasons] Collinite 845, Lusso Oro and 1Z Glanz.
Let me add, I meant of course there is a possibility to strike through, even with a DA, so I would be comfortable doing a light correction on a brand new car without a paint meter, but doing a lot of correction or on an older or unknown condition car, you would want to also invest in a paint-thickness gauge.
My advice as always is go look on Adams Polishes Website, they have some of the best instructional videos around, Plus thier products are top notch especially for the novice. They really did a great job making it very comprehensive, color coded bottle tops with pads etc. Its very idiot proof. (certain aspects) NXT wax is actually a good product, the products you already have in hand are very good BTW. a little tip on the Clay lube, add some Dawn to the mix, maybe 1 oz or less......... the stripping properties of the Dawn will really assure you have a clean surface after the claying process. Just make sure you clay in the shade if you elect to use Dawn. Good luck, and have fun.
Be cognizant that these instructional video are done by professional detailers, usually with years of using various machine polishers and therefore make it look ‘easy’. There is a learning curve and it takes practice, remember there is nothing that is ‘idiot proof’ so practice on a scrap panel obtained from a breaker yard, if you go through the clear coat it not a disaster as opposed to ruining your own or worse yet a paying customers vehicle
Thanks, I edited my statement for clarification. You are right, there is no such thing as "idiot proof"...........but alot of the senarios in the adams videos are not that hard, and made very comprehensive that any person "will understand"..........
thanks guys i appreciate the responses. i spent about 2 days looking at adam's video's. i really wish i had the cash, but i was thinking maybe going with the hand polish kit or at the vary least their shampoo. I like the idea of not having to worry about the suds drying on the car.
Yeah, that sounds nice, but instead I would recommend, if you can afford it [about $100]...get a Gilmour Foam Master and an electric leaf blower...you can foam the car, rinse it and blow dry then towel dry and you could possibly, if quick enough, do all that on a black car in the sun and not have any issues. Just a thought. As far as polishing, hand polishing is pretty hard work and will not usually give GREAT results. If you can not afford a DA polisher, I would honestly advise to stay away from opti-coat for now as well. It will lock in your paint as it is when applied, so it is ideal to have perfect paint before application. If you are truly SET on applying opti-coat, you could always hand polish to the best of your abilities, apply OC and later when you can afford a DA, polish it off, otherwise in my opinion, you would be better off hand polishing and then applying a wax, or maybe sealant or both. 1Z Glanz and Collinite 845 I mentioned before both have outstanding protection and last forever, and both look amazing! I remember being in your boat, having a car I really wanted to look great, but couldn't afford to hang with the big boys...it is not impossible, but very hard, frustrating work...hand polishing takes probably 3-4 times longer, so a car that would be an 8-10 hour correction by DA could take 20-40 hours by hand and still wouldn't be the same. I am not trying to scare you off or tell you to not do it, because I heard the same things and did what you are, I went and got some meguiars ultimate compound, liquid wax and glaze and did it all by hand. It took FOREVER and looked MUCH better, but still wasn't near what I can achieve now in half the time and 25% of the work. I am just saying I would save your back and do minor work until you can afford a DA, then get into polishing and OC. Whatever you choose, good luck! and keep us posted with updates and pics!!