Tips on getting a better finish

Hello everyone!

Currently I'm mainly using d300 with microfiber pads for my compounding followed up with a polishing pad with 106fa or m205.
It seems like my finish isnt the best and im still seeing some very light hazing or micromarring left.
My technique is to use moderate to heavy pressure and than finish off with light pressure for the last couple passes. Is this the correct way or should I keep the pressure constant throughout the polishing cycle. Reason I ask this is that Todd posted a thread saying that when using a DA it is best to keep constant pressure throughout the cycle by not reducing pressure in order to get a good finish.
For reference here is the link to the post.

http://http://www.autopiaforums.com...acheive-flawless-finish-m205-da-polisher.html

 

Work that finish longer.

What pads are you using?

 

Currently using LC white pad to finish with 106fa. How bout pressure? Lessen or maintain pressure

 

What color car?

 

What pads / speed are you working M205 and 106FA with, also vehicle are you working on?

 

car color is bmw's black sapphire. As for the speed i would use speed 5 and then slow it down to 4 with light pressure for final passes.

 

A key point is Black Sapphire is a metallic...and a new BMW color. Modern Beemers are known for their orange peel. Plus, metallic paint never looks clear due to the metal flake.

Regardless, I would step your finishing speed up to 6 (if your PC is an XP) or at least 5 for non-XP.

 

Get 85rd!

 

Finessing (Jewelling) a Paint Surface - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/137062-finessing-finish%3B-obtaining-extra-10%25.html#post1453754

 

As said above - step up the speed and work it for a long time (PO106FA).

 

85rd and 106FA are the same product, FA has 3x the powder content hence why it cuts better but finish a car down with FA and RD and tell me if you see a noticeable difference. I'll give you a hint, you wont find a difference.

OP: On black paint M205 can leave micromarring. You have a limited work time with it (about 30-45seconds) before the abrasives start re-marring the finish. On black cars using the FA is a better optiuon:thumb:

 

I had good resutls on a black Shelby GT500 with the D300 compound followed by M205 with a white Adams white polishing pad speed was 5.5. I have also read that the Megs MF finishing pad works well with M205. I followed the M205 with #7 Glaze and then #26 Yellow tech Wax.

 

That's some good info Dave. Do you still have a place for 85RD or just use 106FA now?

 

What I get on Black Sapphire paint or any other marque's metallic paint is clarity that makes the metallic particles seem to come to the "surface" of the paint, so that you think you can actually touch them. Gloss is increased as well overall, and of course in the sun, the finish is amazing.

I also have both Menzerna's 106FA and PO85RD, and find that the 106FA (as David already said) has more finish cutting ability than PO85RD, so if you want to finish down just a little more, then 106FA is going to be my choice.

Dan F

 

I'll tell increasing my da speed. How about pressure during the couple final passes? Should I lighten pressure or maintain it?

Thanks!

 

Almost no pressure during the final passes; just the weight of the machine.

 

I thought 106 is the same as Super Finish, if so, it's not the same as 85rd. (SF4500)

 

PO106FA = Part Number Super Finish = Product Cut = 2.5 Gloss = 5

PO85RD = Part Number Final Polish = Product Cut = 1 Gloss = 5

This is what I assume David is referring to.

Dan F

 

The important thing to note, to those not completely 100 percent familiar in "feeling" products and paint out while polishing is that 106FA's initial cut on a rotary can leave the lightest of light trails on softer paint. While they may be darn similar, this is a place where 85RD would perfectly fit for the guys who can't finish 106 off on its own.

If you are using a SMAT product like M205, your initial refining can be done on higher speeds, always with firm, solid pressure, once you get a couple of section passes down(slow, less than 1in per second) you can back your speed off, keeping the same pressure and same arm movement to refining the finish without the issue of skipping the abrasives over the finish so fast it starts to scour. Obviously this will only work with certain paints(sometimes where hardness/softness is irrelevant).

Polishing paint is not a process of apply product A to pad B and polish until clear, some of the writeups on here I think give a false impression its BAM BAM BAM done. Its not. Patience is part of the art of improving paint.

 

Thank You