One step polish: P203 + LLC white polishing pad?

Hi DB members,
I have just worked on an Audi A4 in metallic black few days ago and I was able to remove all the swirls and fine scratches on the paint. I worked with P203 + 4" LLC orange pad using PC 7424xp. However, I wasn't very satisfy with the result. I see no swirls and scratches when I pulled the car under the sun around 6pm, but the car wasn't in very high gloss even though I applied one coat of PowerLock.

Is it necessary to follow with PO85rd + LLC white polishing pad after the one step compound? and What does that mean by 'refining the paint'?


Thanks

 

Jason,

Refining the paint is a term we tend to use when we talk about getting "that much more" gloss out of a dark colored car, or a car that may be even the slightest bit hazy. In your case, 203 probably finished down really nicely, but if that paint were softer, or a jetblack, solid red or any solid color(or SOFTER) the 203 might leave a GREAT finish, but in these certain cases could use some refining work(with something like 85RD) to make the paint that much sharper.

If you were using 85RD on that color, a white pad is a fine idea, but the typical practice is using a finishing pad of your choice(black, blue red) to really sharpen up the finish.

Chances are the orange pad might be the reason for the little lack of gloss(but I am sure it looked great), so something like 85RD on the white polishing foam, or a finishing foam would be a great idea to tighten up the finish and make the car much glossier.

Just so you know, refining the paint makes the biggest difference on darker colors, softer paints, and solid colors, where the paint is more susceptible to even the lightest of hazing which can dull the finish ever so slightly.

Traditionally, "refining" is done with a lighter polish and lighter cut pad, though you can refine the paint by extending the working time of a medium polish - making sure its completely, evenly broken down(if you were limited to a 1 step approach).

 

I know this may not apply to you because you use a RO Machine, you need a rotary and you need heat to accomplish this but read Rotary Polishing - Regenerating Technique for Enhancing Correction & Clarity - - Detailing World -

Basically DaveKG, says Polish how you would normally, then slow down and let that "white/milky" haze come back then step it up and polish 'till it goes clear(repeat) until you cannot get that white/milky haze to come back. It's suppose to rival even the best finishing polishes and save you money.

 

Hi Jason, did you worked the polish until it is almost gone? If you din, chances are the swirls and scratches will be masked by the unworked lubricant and clarity will suffer. Try inspecting the paintwork under dark exposure with a strong torch and rub your finger against the surface to spot for these unworked lubricants. You can also try wiping the worked area with a damp cloth (little shampoo is good), then rinse and see whether the water turn milky. If it does, you will need to relook into how you have worked the polish (work it longer or reduce the amount or reduce the work area).

If you are sure that everything is done right, step down to LC white with 203 or PO85rd with grey or softer pad.

 

Thanks for all your inputs. I spread P203 with an orange pad at speed 3-4 then start polishing with speed 6 in very slow movement and the polishing compound turned completely transparent after 2 passes, so I am pretty sure that the compound is completely broken down. For the compound removal, I sprayed the work panel with IPA 30% to remove Menzerna oil. I did that to ensure the swirls and scratches were all removed by polishing rather than hiding by the oil. I will go back to work on the car again probably next week as the client request me to remove some of the deep scratches that cannot be removed by one step polish. I will post up some pictures.