Very long series of questions/rants

Discussion in 'Car Detailing Product Discussion' started by DirtyWeRX, Jul 9, 2011.

  1. DirtyWeRX

    DirtyWeRX DB Forum Supporter

    ***BEFORE YOU BEGIN READING, I'D SUGGEST SETTING SOME TIME ASIDE***

    This originally started out as just asking a few questions, but I forgot to take my adderall today...

    Hey need some help building an order from Chemical Guys!

    I want to spend right around $200 give or take, and I want to try a little bit of everything. I already have quite a bit of detailing products (I have a "collection thread"http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/detailing-collection/29449-dirtywerxs-collection.htm) from Adam's, 1z, Menzerna, P21s, Zaino... And I've purchased nearly all of it from Detailersdomain (except Zaino of course). I will say, I absolutely enjoy purchasing from Phil. He has always been very helpful and quick to respond whenever I have questions.

    However, I'm just looking to expand my collection of supplies and thought I'd give CG a shot. The products I am looking for are more or less alternatives to what I already have. Also, I am looking for your personal experience and input on which products I should consider buying.

    Here's what I'm looking for:

    Car wash:

    I will probably be buying it by the gallon and looking for a few different types.... I want something to wash my own car with that won't be harsh on stripping wax ( because I don't usually have time to wax my car very often). I want one that does strip wax ( for customer's cars that are getting waxed). And I want a soap that works well with a foam gun (Gilmour foam gun as well as "Home Depot foam gun")

    Detail spray:
    I really really really love Adam's detail spray, however, it's way too expensive for me to use on my own car all the time. I usually reserve their detail spray for very nice cars I'm getting paid to detail. So, I want something that I'd really useful for drying cars.

    Clay bar:looking for something that is really good at removing stubborn bugs guts and occasional tar/sap. I'm willing to buy 2 or 3 different kinds of clay (light and medium)

    PS. I just received and order of yellow Riccardo Clay today!!!

    Bug and tar remover:

    I haven't found anything that works well on bugs and tar. I've been thinking about picking up 1z's insekt&tar remover, or something from 3M. So if CG have something that works well, I'd like to try it....

    Clay bar lube:
    unless there is something that works better than detailing spray, then this won't be necessary.

    Waterless wash:
    looking to try this stuff out. I'll probably be buying ONR as well from DD.com.

    Dash cleaner:
    I love 1z Cockpit Premium. Do they have anything similar?

    Trim/tire dressing:

    I have Adam's VRT and some SCG. I like both, but they are $$$. Also, I have a can of Stoner's aerosol trim shine, but it's waaaay to greasy. I've tried the CG Black on Black. I like it better, it's not AS greasy and it's cheaper than Adams In and Out. I prefer a satin or matte finish.

    Wheel cleaner:
    I have p21s wheel gel and sonax. I like them both. Sonax seems to work best on German cars and p21s works well all around. With that being said, does CG have anything with similar performance at a cheaper price?

    Paint sealant:
    I normally reach for Menzerna Power Lock or 1z Glanz Wax. Just looking for something along those lines. Something that goes on with ease and comes off easier with long protection and works well on different colored cars.

    Bulk microfiber towels:
    I'd like to replace all the ones I have seeing as how they are nearing the end of their life.

    "1-step polish":

    All I have a PC7424xp to remover scratches and swirls right now (till I can afford a Flex rotary). But 99% of my customers don't want/need compounding or heavy polishes. They just want the light defects removed by running it over with a "quick polishing" ( I hate it when they use that term)... I don't need it to seal the paint afterwards because I'll be putting a sealant over it anyway. In the mean time, I've been using Menzerna super finish (I believe that's the one with the lowest cut) and I just feel like I'm wasting it with out using it for the actual 3-step polishing system. I'm not looking for the best product in this category because 9 times out of 10, the customer wanted to have the car polished, just to say it was polished.

    Other polishes and compounds:
    I have the popular Menzerna kit and it works well so this isn't really necessary.


    Pads for my PC:
    I have the older Adam's hex pads, 4" uber pads, and some LC pads that are a hair shorter than my 6" backing plate. I really like the Uber pads so I might just buy the larger versions of the 4" pads... However, I've been told that textured (hex) pads work best on e PC. I don't know if it's true or not.... Also, do wool pads work with a DA? Or is that a "rotary only thing"?.... I bought the 6"-pad counter weight. It came with a 5"-pad counter weight. So, what should I do if I want to use the Uber 4" pads? Should I just run the OPM lower? Or do I have to find a smaller counter weight?

    Glass cleaner:
    I'm not really concerned about this category. I like Adam's glass cleaner just fine.

    Carnuba wax (paste or liquid):
    the only paste wax I've been using is the AG HD wax. I'll pop it out of the tub and rub it on a pad for my PC. I just want something affordable and easier to remove.

    Pre-wash:
    when I use a foam gun, I just put some car soap, dish soap, and a little bit of W99 to spray on the car, let it dwell, and wash off to aid in lifting contaminants and removing old wax. Anyone have any better suggestions with CG products to do this with?

    Degreasers:
    I've just been using Simple Green/ Purple Power (maybe some P21s Total Autowash for nicer cars) for fender wells/tires/engine bays. So if CG had something that works better or can be diluted to save a bit of money, let me know.

    Like I said, I'm looking to buy the CG equivalents of these products. I am one of those people who buy more product than they use, and really enjoy looking at their collection sitting on their shelf.

    I've heard good things about their products and how they are a good "bang for the buck" product. Im not detailing Ferraris or other high end cars like that so I don't need (but want) the best of the best. Just something more economical with good performance.

    But, if I can't really decide to go with them on certain products, then I've been eye balling some products on detailersdomain such as Prima, wolf's, and aquartz.

    OK...Here comes a bit of a rant...

    This leads me to another question. All of this "nano" technology that keeps popping up recently... Is this just a new marketing term? Or is this the "new thing" with newer cars? I believe I've read somewhere that post 2003 Mercedes cars have a special Nano finish on their cars that are a PITA to correct. It just seems to me that products regarding "nano technology" Is reserved for newer German cars only. I can't see myself using Aquartz on my 02 WRX (especially with all of it's paint defects and rock chips). but it's perfectly suited for my friends 08 BMW 335i...

    So, could Aquatrz be used on a newer Honda or Ford? or do these cars lack a similar finish as German cars? If I apply it on a Chrysler, will the world end?

    Also, I'm gonna need someone to explain Iron Cut to me. I understand that you put it on an applicator of some sort and rub it on the car. Then when it comes into contact with iron particles, it turns red just like sonax....

    Soooo, do you wash, clay, then apply the iron cut to see any contaminants you missed? Does this product actually aid in the removal of the contaminants like sonax (apply, dwell, wash off)? Or, does it eliminate the process of claying all together? I see it used a lot, but never completely understood what it's for or where it fits in the detailing process.

    I've always been a little weary of products that advertise something along the lines of, "specially designed" or "quick and easy" usually because its marketing BS or its "too good to be true"! I'm not bashing any of the products such as Aquartz. Ive seen a lot of write-ups that involve their products and it always turns out looking great. I guess I just don't understand the significance of it.

    You should see how my dad's eyes widened when he looked at a bottle of Nufinish "the once a year wax!"..... To be fair, my dad got a brand new 2006 Ford F-150 a few years ago. This was the first legit new vehicle my dad has ever owned in his life. So once he saw the wax, he thought he struck gold. I asked him, "If you only need to apply it once a year, then why do they give you such a large bottle?" He thought about it for a moment, then put the bottle back.... Then I bought him a Meguiars detailing kit, and he has gone to town washing and waxing the truck ever since.

    Also, to clear some space for Chemical Guys products, I'll probably be putting most of my Zaino products up for sale (except for the leather cleaner and conditioner) soon. I bought nearly all of the products in their line. But, I've barely used them (or never even touched them) and have no need for them. So, I'll probably be putting them up for sale/trade soon.

    Once again, Im looking for you advice when it comes to Chemical Guys products... im not meaning to start a huge debate on the whole nano technology, but if you want to give a little input about it and proper usage for Iron Cut then please feel free to discuss it. i'll probably buy a bottle to give it a shot!


    If, you sat through this and read it all, I would get up, stretch, and walk around a bit to avoid blood clots.

    THANKS!
     
  2. Kilo6_one

    Kilo6_one DB Forum Supporter

    what zaino stuff do you have?
     
  3. froboy272

    froboy272 Obsessive Detailer

    lol

    Car Wash : Get Cirus Wash Clear. You can use it as maintenance and as a wax stripper mixed with APC with or without foaming

    Detail Spray: I use Finish Kare #425 and love it. From chemical guys I would get their P-40 Detail Spray.

    Clay Lube: Use ONR at clay lube dilution if you are getting it anyway. Dont waste your detail spray.

    Waterless Wash: ONR

    Dash: Stick with Cockpit Premium. If you are ordering ONR from Phil anyway make sure you have an extra bottle at all times.

    Tires: To each their own. Super VRT is fine. Or get some Opti-Bond from Phil.

    Wheel Cleaner: CG Sticky Wheel Gel. Use with a foaming sprayer.

    LSP: Powerlock and Glanz are great. Another option is Collinite 845. Amazing durability and only $15.

    1 Step: Menz Power Finish.

    Polishes: You may want to get some M105 that you could then follow with your Power Finish after for deeper defects

    Pads: You do not need a counterweight. Get 5.5" and 4" Uber Pads from Phil.

    Paste Wax: I have been using Lusso Oro Lately.

    Pre Wash / Degreaser: Get Optimum Powerclean from Phil. Dilute for pre-soaking and you can use it on lots of other parts too. Its $35 and will go a long way and is safe when used properly. CG has Grime Reaper which i use for heavy duty stuff because i already had it.


    To me it sounds like you can skip ordering from CG if you substitute just a few things and get everything from Phil. Just my opinion though. Dont forget to use your 10% off coupon and choose free shipping if you spend over $150 from him.
     
  4. DirtyWeRX

    DirtyWeRX DB Forum Supporter

    I have:
    Z2 Pro... Used once (about 2oz missing)
    Z5 Pro... maybe 95% left
    Z6... I'd have to check, but I believe about 90% left
    Z7... I'd have to check but only used a couple times
    Z8... I think I sprayed it once (not even a full spray)
    Z9...probably keeping
    Z10... Definitely keeping
    Z16... used a few times
    Z18... one bar is unused
    Z-AIO... probably 95% left
    Z-CS... about 98% left
    ZFX... used once (3-4 drops used)

    I'd probably want to try and sell all of this as a package first because I don't want to be left with something I cant really use... but i know youre a Zaino fan so if you want to make a deal, let me know!
     
  5. DirtyWeRX

    DirtyWeRX DB Forum Supporter

    froboy272: I know that most (if not all) of the CG products could be replaced with something different. I will be buying ONR and probably a bunch of other products from Phil sometime soon. I especially want the ONR because Ive read that its VERY versatile and can be used on so many things.

    But, for some unknown reason, I really like to buy a bunch of different stuff from one company, place it on my shelves, and look at it. Something about the conformity of the product labels gets to me (probably comes from the German side of the family)...

    I'd just like to get some CG products and try them out. Just about everything they have is moderately priced and can be diluted... although, I have my doubts that Citrus Wash Clear can really Dilute 1:4000.... just seems like a bit of a stretch, but I've been wrong plenty of times before.
     
  6. froboy272

    froboy272 Obsessive Detailer

    I use it 1:512. Which is 1 oz per 4 gallons. They have some good deals right now on a lot of stuff. Most of the stuff i mentioned is on sale like the Pro / P-40 Detailer, the Grime Reaper APC etc..
     
  7. Bunky

    Bunky DB Forum Supporter

    Why just try to stay with one brand? It is just the look of the containers?

    I have not that many CG products: Maxi Suds (it definitely does suds) and the Undercarriage Spray (the darkening effect degrades quickly)
     
  8. froboy272

    froboy272 Obsessive Detailer

    Yea i have been using tire dressing in the wells lately and like the results.
     
  9. mike aesthetica

    mike aesthetica Jedi Nuba


    I can answer this only because I have a lot of chemistry in my background. You can speculate and come to conclusions on your own. I would say, marketing plays a huge part in what and why some groups of people buy some things. If the right person talks, the masses sometimes listen.

    I can also speak to their effectiveness because at one time I carried and used a lot of these products for use, long before they were anywhere else in the country(this was upward of 1 year ago now). A lot of misinformation was given to the public and private distributors by some of the companies who created and manufactured these as well, so beware.

    The super sealants, a majority of "nano" products are "super" siloxanes or some derivative of a siloxane. This word may look familiar because a lot of polymer sealants and some acrylics are in fact siloxane sealants. By using reasoning that would mean that some of the OTC siloxane type sealants(like duragloss 105) for example are in fact nano. It is only considered a nanoscopic "labeled" product if the molecules involved are small enough - literally. This is why Cquartz and Aquartz products will wear the same(as in wear away) if treated with heavy detergents AND why you are not supposed to wash them for 12 hours or a day or whatever the directions say. Reason being is crosslinking(or laying is more accurate sometimes) occurs when the solvents used to suspend the actives evaporate. Water disrupts this because remember, water is a solvent.

    These will not directly prevent rock chips, if you are told so, while it might help 1-2% by an increase in total film it is not a primary attribute to using the product.

    Make and/or model of vehicle is not a concern when looking into these. You can apply them on whatever you like.




    IronX/IronCut/Deironizer/Sonax are thiol based cleaners. The thiol is what reacts with anything ferrous(iron) in nature and changes color. A minuscule amount of heat is release during this but does not appreciably effect its effectiveness.

    The problem with these products that I am noticing now is that they do not react on the same magnitude with non-ferrous contamination, so while many users feel complete decontamination after using it, there is a fairly good chance that they will leave behind non ferrous contamination that has simply not reacted. So there could potentially be contaminaton left behind, subsurface.

    Process should roughly be as follows:
    Wash
    De-Tar
    Light clay to expose any other contamination that is underneath the non metallic non ferrous contamination
    Application of chosen Thiol
    Agitation with dampened applicator of choice
    Rinse
    at this point I would retest in the heavier sections to ensure complete removal.

    Thiol chemicals will not react through road film or tar or other non metallic contamination and should not be treated as a prewash. They should really be used after complete exposure of the metallic contamination to ensure thorough removal. Another thing to consider especially when claying is while shearing the head off of contamination is looked upon as a bad thing, in the case of Thiol cleaning its great because it gives you maximum reaction instead of wasting time dissolving what is above the surface. After all we are all concerned with decontamination, not just using a product because it looks good.

    If true decontamination is your goal, and not taking pictures of the reaction, it should be the final step right before your final rinse and dry, to make sure everything is off the surface for MAXIMUM contact. Nobody would tell you this because its just darn time consuming - if you think about it though, makes plenty sense.



    What you will notice is people will do exactly as other people do. IF that means using Spray on Butter as an LSP, you will in fact find people doing this simply because another person is doing so. Marketing at its best.
     
  10. DirtyWeRX

    DirtyWeRX DB Forum Supporter

    Jesus! What a response! I suppose I'm not a a point right now where buying something like Aquartz is necessary. For what I'm doing right now, there just isn't a market for it and I doubt I could convince some Subaru owners that they NEED this. I'm not detailing Mercedes and BMWs so much right now. Maybe some day.

    But, I am definitely going to be ordering some iron cut soon to give it a shot. I gotta order quite a few things soon.
     

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