Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction Kit........

What do you guys think of this kit?..Is it worth the money?...And will it leave holograms?



Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction System Starter Kit and Free Bonus - 5" | Detailed Image

 

Its on my list of things to try......... I have not heard a bad thing about it.

 

It has a lot of positive reveiws . Really looks great for anyone who only wants to use a DA and attain rotary level polishing. I'm looking to test it myself .

 

Chad (RaskyR1) said even though it has great correction, M105 in his experience had more and continues to be his go to product. Im interested in it though, seems like a simple idea but I wonder how different is the MF on the pad compared to a bonnet.

 

It is a great system, I use the cutting disc with D300 and M105 and even primed the pad with D300 and 2 small drops of M105 for a little extra cut. I like the system because you use low speed so less vibrations and still get great cut. Also D300 is great on a foam pad, speed 5 and no dust.

 

Thanks for the Info sal329!!!

 

Hong Kong is getting it in September, maybe ill grab one then

 

I've tried it on a black car, and the results were shocking. Most of the time we need to use a rotary to get the desired cut and then chase it with a DA to get rid of the buffer trails. this system cuts like a rotary and finishes like a DA normally does. It will cut down on time for sure making detailling a bit more profitable. used it on speed 3, worked a small section. i couldn't get over how well this cut.

 

Will get back to you when my Griots garage DA and the MF system arrive in about an hour

 

Yeah..Please let me know how it goes/results....

 

As far as the kit goes, I'd just buy the 5.5" cutting pads, D300 and add it to my stash of detailing products. I've had better performance out of 3D's new version of UNO than the M105/D300 combo I was using.
Tips - clean the pad after every panel with compressed air if you have it (if not, get it), and there's NO need to go past speed 5 on a PCXP, take your time - slow - overlapping passes.

 

First impressions, the Correction Compound has a monstrous amount of cut, even with the Finishing MF, left a decent amount of marring. The Finishing wax does not have enough cut IMO, somewhere between 85rd and 106, more towards the 106FA. There needs to be a mid-level polish IMO, or have the finishing one with more cut, it wasn't getting out enough of the marring from the finishing pad/correction compound combo. I don't like the fact that it has wax in it, as I would much rather have a clean surface to use a different LSP and I feel like the addition of wax in the finishing probably takes down the level of cutting power.

Just my initial impressions. This is on a black 2006 Altima, one-step, and the paint is medium or medium-soft. I'm still correcting it and switched back to my trusty rotary and am getting better results that way. Like I said, these are my first and unbiased impressions, time will tell as I test out the MF system on more cars and develop better techniques for it. I am very much looking forward to trying it with the new V3 of UNO, which I'll be ordering very soon.

 

Marring? monstrous amount of cut? what is your technique? I use the MF cutting pad with M105/D300 mix and didn't get any marring. I use a PCXP, speed 5 max, slow overlapping passes. You have to clean it after every panel, compressed air works best. And UNO v3 works better than M105/D300. I'm guessing that maybe you had a tiny spec of dirt or something on the pad and that caused the marring.

 

I used D300 and a foam Buff and Shine Yellow pad on a one step black 07 Altima with great results. So if the MF pad is "marring" you can use foam pads with D300. The finishing polish should not have much cut in it, I do not use it as I am happy with Menz 85rd and do not like the fact D301 has wax in it.

 

Hi.

Haven't lurked here much since the changes to the forum.
It is all rather confusing for me, but somehow I managed to see your post, and this thread. Interesting that you are experiencing so much marring.

If you're open to a few pointers, perhaps I can help.

Sounds like you've got no problems removing defects. Is this correct?

This is a red flag... hmmmm. This leads me to believe the compounding procedure needs some adjustment. It's not at all hard to master this system, particularly if you are skilled with a rotary (by this I mean that it's much more difficult to achieve stellar results with a rotary, as it takes awhile to learn how to handle one properly).

Make sure you're not using too much speed.
The disc should be rotating maybe four of five turns per second, using a bit above normal applied pressure. This speed ensures good cut, but will keep the fibers from matting down too quickly. With that Griot's machine, you can get the disc spinning super fast... which does cut, but not all that much better than the lower speed. Until you get the scouring under control at least, use less than maximum speed.

After you are done removing defects, clean the disc.
Compressed air is by far the best way to clean the discs. If you don't have air handy, then agitate the microfiber material with a brush, just enough to make any packed down fibers stand on end. Then, run the face of the disc into a microfiber towel for approximately 10 seconds. This will clean a large amount of the of the compound from the disc. Since the compound and disc contain abraded the paint residue, and D300 is a low-dust formula, almost all the product is remaining on the disc. This means that if a particular paint type is prone to marring, the residue can affect the polishing result big-time.

At this point, reapply a few drops of D300 to the disc, and rub it into the fibers. Then, minimize the amount of product on the disc by either blowing it clean with compressed air, or by running it into the microfiber towel (make sure to use a clean towel, or at least don't use the same area of the towel you used for the first cleaning).

Although this step seems silly, it's not!
It ensures cleanliness of the discs's microfiber material, it fluffs the fibers, and also distributes the compound evenly and consistently.

Now, drop the machine speed down to the point that it is able to rotate the pad maybe two or three turns per second under normal or slightly more than normal pressure.

I'm anxious to hear if you see an improvement, so keep me updated if you decide to try this procedure.

In terms of polishing, the Finishing Wax was designed to do one thing: remove any marring left behind by the compound. Not only that, but it was designed with only enough cut to remove marring on the super-difficult paints. So, if there is any obvious marring on non-problematic paints, something has gone awry during the compounding step. I can shoot some pointers your way for final polishing, but for now, until the compound step is dialed in, it's better to wait.

This is good... it is pretty fantastic once you get past the short learning curve.

D300 Correction Compound beats Uno 3.0 in terms of defect removal, hands down.
In fact, in my limited experience using Uno 3.0, the Correction Compound equals or surpasses it for finish polishing. Even if the wax is stripped, the finish is typically excellent.

These may be fighting words for some folk, but not for me... I am not saying 3.0 isn't good, because it is good, especially when one considers its price.

In my opinion, those having issues with D300 are either using a method that isn't realizing its full potential, or they're not interested in fine tuning it. In other words, if they are seeing better results using 3.0, then they're not seeing the full potential of the microfiber system.

This is not an attack on those wholeheartedly and happily using Uno 3.0 with the discs.
Honestly, I am just so happy that the discs finally made it to market!!!

I know how much time was spent creating these liquids and pads... it was a lot! I can assure you that if D300 Correction Compound needed more slickness or more "user friendliness", it would have it. The thing is, when a compound is made, it's hard to change one aspect of it without affecting another. Less dust, better wipe off, longer working time? Most times, you'll lose something to get it. From what I've seen, most of the time, it's cutting power. When a product is named Correction Compound, its cut has to be exceptional, otherwise it's a huge letdown. D300 delivers stellar cutting potential with great finishing.

Although the DA Microfiber System is a crowning achievement, I believe that the discs are the Crown's Jewel.
So, use whatever compound or polish that delivers the best result for you, but use those discs!

 

I assume over time polish manufacturer's will formulate their polishes to specifically work with the mf pads just as they did for foam pads and then we will have more choices -- like a medium polish rather than the one cut wonder.

UNO may getting more attention since 3D is marketing it more on autopia.

 

I'll come back to this thread once I have more time, have to go pretty soon, but thanks for the response Kevin! Let me clarify what I think went wrong, is that I was using the D300 with the finishing discs. The finishing discs seem to have longer fibers meaning that the oscillations wouldn't be as effective with the compound, leaving the marring. I later switched to rotary then just ended up 2-stepping using the Cutting/D300 and then Blue/106 on rotary which didn't take long at all and left a great finish. I did notice that there was less marring with the cutting but didn't have the time to fool around and compare. Also, another fault is that I had the machine on 4-5, I wasn't dropping the speed as the speed dial is in a retarded place compared to the Makita.

Like I said multiple times, it was my first impression which can change. One question, are the abrasives diminishing or non-diminshing in D300? And yes, they have a lot of cut, which is a good thing. Knocked back 100% of the defects the first panel I tested it on, I was in awe. After that on the car it was getting anywhere from 85-97% of the defects since there were a lot of rids, I occasionally did 2 passes with it to knock back the deeper ones. Also, this car was re-painted as I found out later, so the paint hardness was varying which was why I chose to do a 2-step instead.

I'll be sure to keep you guys updated as I keep trying out the system.

 

The d300 is non-diminshing