:shead: Okay I was going to call this thread my first detail but something unexpected happened, I don't like surprises very much. This might be the show and shine section but I'll just do the show right now Okay so I got a beater door to practice on Process: ONR Wash Clay ONR Wash Used ShopVac blow feature to get water out of crevices that MF wouldn't reach Polish- M105, M205 Problems Encountered - Was I suppose to clay the black trim, seemed to rub off on the clay - My fluffy wool pad was a nightmare, firstly I didn't know how to prime it, I used a 2 spritz of distilled water secondly, the bur wouldn't stop I think it might be because it's my first time but it still is coming out at this rate I'll only be left with the backing plate -How do you guys take such good photo's of the imperfections, I tried at different angles but you may notice or not in the 50/50 I still had imperfections I wanted to show you guys -I still have to use the menz 85rd and paint cleaner and sealent and then wax but my friend interrupted me saying he needed help installed a body kit so I'll finish off next weekend and I'll try to post up updates Please comment on any improvements I can make or different processes I should try
the black trim probably had a lot of dressing residue, but no you dont really need to clay it =p I dont use wool pads cuz i use a DA so cant comment on priming it good photos requires good lighting and a good camera (with flash off) and possibly a tripod the way you get pictures is from the sensor absorbing light through the lenses thus the reason for tripod and with flash off, you get all its naturalness
Hamza7 - Congratulations on your first try with a Rotary, right ? First off, never ever claybar black plastic trim or any plastic or rubber/vinyl trim. Claybars are made for cleaning painted surfaces and glass, not plastic, not convertible vinyl windows, just paintwork and glass . Did a cat explode on your chest, or did you get a wool pad? If you got a wool pad, it looks like the old-school/style wool and not the newer more user-friendly purple foam wool pads.. You dont really need to spur a wool pad until it gets really matted down with product and dirt from the paint. Perhaps next time just use the orange pad brush cleaner or for wool pads, heck just use something thin and long that is hard enough to loosen the pad fibers, and spin the machine not so fast that it makes such a mess. If you have access to air, an airchuck blown into a spinning pad with enough pressure is great to clean wool pads. Just be sure to blow this outside or downwind from anything that you dont want coated with wool fibers, etc. You need to have moisture - a detailing spray, cheap stuff, no silicones, etc., water,, something to lubricate the pad and the Meguiars 105, to give you longer working time to correct, and help the 105 get past the "Im drying out and dying on you stage".Again, all of this is closely related to the type of paint, buffer speed, pressure on the paint, type of pad, ambient temps, compound type, how much moisture is used initially. What you dont want to happen is to have the compound dry out on the paint and be difficult to remove. If this happens, spray the area down enough to help it come off easily and not further scratch the paint. Its a fine balance sometimes, and you have to learn what works this time and know that next time, on another vehicle, or even the same one, it may act a little different, so be flexible and ok with change. I have had a few people question using moisture with buffing, saying you dont need it, But I have personally had great success using some moisture especially with the Lake Country Hydro-Tech Pads which I have been using for awhile now. On other pads I still like a little moisture on the work to help things along, and when I find the product drying out before I want it to. Did you used both M105 and M205 on that last pics of the door ? If you used a wool pad and not a purple foam wool pad, on a rotary with Meguiars 105, it should have finished better but from what I can see, it doesnt look too bad, for your first time. Meguiars 105 is a great compound for really scratched, swirled, etc., paint, but it has a learning curve to learn; basically, it wants to shut down and on you rather quickly, depending on how fast you are spinning it, how much moisture is on the paint/pad, how much pressure you are exerting down, the ambient temps, and the type of paint. I have an '09 GrandCherokee in Brilliant Black Crystal Pearl, and its a pretty hard easy to work with paint, and measured with my thickness gauge, there is a lot more paint on than a lot of other vehicles when new. Meguiars105 will actually correct down pretty clearly and swirl free on its own, but you will get this better as you practice more if you want, and want to keep using this product.. It is ok to put pressure down on your rotary more and watch your compound and paint and dont let it dry out and get the paint very hot. Meguiars205 will actually make you wonder why the Megs105 cant play this nice; it is easy to use, has long working times, and finishes down pretty darn clear. Overall, you did a pretty darn good job ! I am proud of you !! Good luck with this project ! Dan F
Get these, TufBuf Black Natural Lambswool Polishing Pad [TUFB-01] - $2.09 : MICRO-SURFACE FINISHING PRODUCTS, INC if you like wool pads.
I think that pic is showing us what happened when the tried to clean his wool pad with this brush... DanF
Wool pads are notorious for shedding. Even after many uses the wool pads I use still shed a ton. Now I only use a wool pad as a last resort.
