How to Use 105...Techniques??

How do you guys use 105?? I used it for the first time today and I found it not extremely difficult, but not easy to use. I didn't get far at all. Had to do extremely small sections and it dried up pretty darn quick. The haze that was left was a little thick (my fault) but was a bear to get off. It worked great though...did what I needed it to do, but just tough to work with.

Definately not the 205, which was a joy to work with. But I guess the 105 is not intended to keep moving until it breaks down. Heard of applying a QD to the pad or the surface??? No?

Thanks for any tips on using the 105 guys...I was practicing for a repair job I've got coming up which requires a lot more surface area work.

FYI...PC, white LC pad, spread product around on 2, then steped up to 5 to work it.

 

I adore M105 but use it with a rotary. With a PC, I'd read up on the Kevin Brown method. There is definitely a learning curve with the product, but once you've got it figured out, it is one of the most amazing products to use. Use it with wool and it can get out 90-95% of what you're trying to correct. The worse cases I still use Menz PG with 3M white wool. You will leave marring which will need to be followed up. The 105 does not leave hardly any and followed with M205 will give you fantastic results. There should be some videos on youtube about the KB method. Don't give up on it!

 

it will never break down. It's a non-diminishing polish. You work it as long as the defects are gone, then you give it a few passes with very light pressure on the pad and it will finish down really nice

 

It took me a while to get the hang of it... but once you get it its great... I can do 1/4 of a hood at a time with it...

If you ever have where it chunks up really really quick just turn the speed down to the lowest setting and it will usually get workable again.

 

Well that is somewhat true, but the residue will still turn to film after a while, and you'll also loose some of the cut after a while.. Why, I say this? Cause I've seen it every time I've used it. This is mainly because when you use these type of abrasives for "shaving" of particles of CC/paint, they(CC particles) will mix together with the compound and also reduce the percentage of abrasivenes as you go along. This means that you will not have the same cutting power as when you started, but still more than you would with a diminishing polish.

 

I think Todd Helme did a really good job discribing how to use it, you could try looking at his forum - TID and doing a search.

One thing I learned - it'd a whole nother ball game if you have old single stage paint! avoid if you can!

 

Adding a drop or two of SIP to it made a big difference...

 

:yikes:

Watch your back! :angel:

 

i use it with rotary and PC, PC i use it on 6 usualy, i noticed that you work it bot about half a minute and do not step down to lower speeds and turn off once it dried up a little. this way it wipes off a lot easier for some reason, thats what i noticed. it works good on PC (7424xp), sometimes better or same as on rotary.



has anybody tried to mix this with mez IP to prolong work time? (usualy its 105 work time is enough by itself but something would be nice to work little longer specialy on realy bad cars

 

Well, I searched around and found quite a few discussions on the Kevin Brown method, but have yet to run across the method itself. Hate to pass on the the work, but does anyone have a link to it?

 

very true. I clean my wool and med - light cut foam pads when using a rotary with a spur and a plastic fork to remove the product and clearcoat residue after every single section is done. whether 2 x 2, 3 x 3 or a whole fender or back door in one hit
thats each time the machine is turned off, worked and then stopped

sounds extreme but you will be rewarded with zero swirls from wool and a beautiful finish
also not good practice to buff at one speed with a rotary or PC
start wherever you wish but go back down the rev range to finish

use black baron pad lubricant undiluted on the wool and foam pads and diluted 50/50 with water to spray the panel your working on to revitalise the polish in the pad and extend working time
can use that to remove the film once your done

I dont use 105 or any other compounds but have tested 105 and find it brilliant if used with a dash of Gloss it EVP and the black baron

water is not a lubricant.

 

couldn't you use any good QD as a lubricant for this purpose?

 

yes you could but make sure its a silicone free quick detailer
any silicones or the wrong type of polymers will cause abrasive polishes to dry out, gum up and dust and reduce the working time and their performance

many QD's are not silicone free but some are.I also have formulated and about to make a product called buff buddy which will eliminate the chance of dry buffing, holograms, allow the pads to work better, prevent dusting from even the most messy polishes and extend working time and product performance and all without silicones, waxes etc

Dont use any that contain IPA alcohol, other solvents, waxes and silicones or that offer alot or some protection.

 

^^ I see you recommend alot product that you sell or make to sell. Were you SVR73 or something a while ago?


For M105 I use just purify water and sometime FK425 to add more time to polish. Never makes get sticky like some QD but lets it still work fast. You cannot use alot fluid only small spray otherwise cut is really reduce.

 

Well, I never found that technique, but I did find enough tips searching to give it a go. Big picture...prep/saturate the pad with product before beginning! That seemed to be the key from my practice steps the other day. Also, a spritz of water here and there when the pad starting running out worked wonders for me. I ended up with an easy working product, no clumping, no dusting, and a completely flawless (ready for 205) surface.

I consider myself somewhat of a pro (even though I don't do this for a living[OK, maybe not a pro, but you know what I mean]), but I've got to admit...this is the first time I've used 105/205 and I have been more impressed with this product than anything else I've ever used in quite some time!

Just for FYI...I ended up using an orange LC pad for the 105 and a green for the 205. Put my LSP on with a black. The green pad/205 combo completely removed that swirl/haze reminants of the 105 with very little effort and left a finish that required zero furhter refinement.

 

I use M105 with a rotary and IMO, it's one of the very, very best products to hit the market in a long time!

 

Most of the stuff Kevin has posted on this method is at Autopia. Of course we know that site is having problems right now :shakehead:

I was fortunate enough to have a conversation with Kevin tonight and he gave a good run down of how it works. It really doesn't seem as difficult as some make it out to be :baby:

I would try to explain what I learned tonight, but I am afraid I would jack up the explanation of the process and pass on even more bad info then is already out in cyber space aranoia:

 

with PC:
apply to pad - one outer circle, one inner circle - after the initial heavier prime, I jsut put an X on the pad or another circle
spread in a 1x1 or 1x2 section and work it up and down in smaller sections..as in a 1x1 section gets broken down into 3 sections.

works better that way for me as its more concentrated area. use about 12 lbs of pressure and let up on the last pass. wipe off right away. do not work until the polish is completely dry, but dont finish until its dry...you will just have to know when to stop after some use...

i use it with orange pad and PCXP spd 6 all the time

 

Most of the pertinent info is posted at detailing world, listed in the in detailing guide section.
I could copy and paste it here on detailing bliss, or put a link if that is allowed.

Thoughts? :meditation:

 

how does 105 work with a yellow lc pad?