1992 Chevrolet Corvette LT1 this is my first S&S her on "detailing bliss" and please bare with me on this one since its originaly in norwegian and just "translated"... the english in translation isnt all that good. but i will come back stronger i hope. try writing the next one on my one in english in stead of "translation" This car I would have over a period of time. Doing a good job and have a "good" result. Have been doing this car in my spare time and have had it about 14 days in total. Number of hours gone into detailing estimated at about 60 hours. There where a few extra hours at this .... Call it punishment round ... .. Just what I will come back to shortly. Add a little focus on the different parts of the job and taken a little more before and after photos. Pictures of what is used ... yes you will get the idea in the thread if you "bear" to see you through the entire job. Here is the thread! On arrival ... on departure that its from me ...: P (or maybe not) I'm at least very pleased with the final result. Nope, here is the thread it self... first som pictures on arival, the car has been quite good taken care of over the yaers but its alwyas somethings to get rid of.. Startet the process by washing under the bonnet and in the wheel arches, but didnt do the engine wash yet... equiptment: -Mac 124 Prickbort -KCL Micro Royale -ValetPro Orange Prewash -High pressure washer and Foam cannon -Mothers felgbørste -SV detail brush Already here it started going bad. When it was time to put the car back in to the garage after I had washed. It would not start ... It was not many minutes on google before I found post after post on the LTX, LS/LT-1 and corvettefever forums. Where there was post after post about the infamous "opticrap" as it is "called". Optispark is the ignition units that all have had or will have problems with. Who own the 92-93 Corvette and Camaro. This is so poorly designed in terms of water that it was frightening. That was probably the reason why it was redesigned so quickly and only exists in these models. People have had problems with them just by driving in heavy reinvær, is touched water dams etc. read threads with lots of info ... and quotes like "i dont drive my car in heavy rain" “I only hands wash my engine bay, with A slight damp cloth "... ... etc etc .... The position is down in front of the engine does not make things better ... son then the hunt for parts started .... Not at least dismantling of the old one to see what it looked like ... I will let the pictures speak for themselves, because this is a forum for detailing But since it was part of the job as requested I wrote a few words about it anyway, and that by removing parts gave me the opportunity to do clean places you normally can not reach. All cleaned up and ready for new parts New VS old… Everyting was bask in place, and the car started again. i can truly say i was relifed.... SO THE MORAL IS, IF YOU ARE NEAR A CORVETTE OR CAMAORO FROM 92-93 SO DO NOT Open the hood IF THERE IS WATER NEARBY !!!!!!!!!!!! Back to what it is all about. The front fender was not exactly in "pollishing" order, so it was dismantled and delivered to painting. When it had some cracks and peeling. equiptment: -Mac 124 Prickbort -Valetpro Orange Prewash -Chemical guys glossworkz -Chemical guys Maxi suds II (I bøtta) -HT-spyler med Foam cannon -Scandicshine bucket with Grit guard -Swissvax Wash pudel -Swissvax Detail brush -EZ- brush Rims: -Chemical guys sticky wheel gel -Swissvax wheel brush -Vikan brush -EZ-brush Clay: -Optimum NO Rinse -Swissvax paint rubber yellow Its important to clean the equiptment after use Prickbort was added in large quantities, before I went and mixed up some candy for the foam cannon. Let the good foam, but the foam cannon just was not quite as it should. So it was time for a little disassembly, while the foam was left to stand on the car. After about 10minutes I washed with the pressure washer. I found something in some channels in it so no wonder it was not very good. Got the Cannon together again and sprayed on some glossworkz with faom cannon before hand washing with pudel and maxi suds II. sprayed the foam on panel for panel. And rinsed well with running water. I like to wash the details while I work my way around my car wash. So, doors, hatches and details got a good round as I worked my way around the car. Then it was time to push your car back into the garage again where it was time for drying and calying. dryed with SS blue towel and a new CG miracle dryer. Following by inspection photos .. Everything needs a wash.. Prickbort is sprayed on.. some good foam …. This was left to stand while I was doing this ... found a small sand where the hose goes into the adjustmentscrew and soap comes up from container .. no wonder it is a little down on its usual ”performance”.. After washing it was time to wash som wheels.. sticky long name mixed in 1:1 . Sprayed on and left to work a couple of minutes before the work startes .. tires first. … Ilove this "sprayer" head for the garden hose... Scrubbed of course the wheel arches as well as i was already sitting on my knees ... sprayed with a mixture of “sticky long” name and prickbort .. (Not in the same bottle). This was repeated of course on all four wheels even if there are no pictures of everything. Then it was time for hand washing, in lovely sunshine. So it was only placed foam panel for panel. And washed well and carefully with both pudel and brushes ... it was only to work on with the nooks and crannies and the rest of the car ... ... come on now 1-2-3 PUSH!!!!! Well dried, it was just taking some inspection photos after drying and start claying ... started at the top and work my way down to the channels .. So it was a bit more removal claying and masking afterwards. tok of some thing so that it would be easier to work on the correction of paint. There was a little left on the paint.. Time for paint correction: Equiptment. -Flex Rotary -3M Fast cut plus -3M Extra fine -Scholl whool -Swissvax whool -Scholl Orange pad -3M grønn pad -3M gul pad -Über blue pad -Swissvax Cleaner fluid proffesional Spotfixes: -basecoat -clearcoat 2k -3M 9my -3M Halfmoon pad -3M trizact P1000 og P3000 Started the circus as usual with a little combo testing, all this car's fiberglass and plastic so wanted to be a little careful with heat. I had decided beforehand that wool was the way to go on to the correction, and only finnishing with foampad. Started to tape up a small area for testing. did a first test with orange Scholl and 3M EF that removed almost nothing as you will see from the pictures. There after i went to Scholl wool and 3M EF this to did almost nothing. So I tested Scholl S03 but it quickly became a bit hot the same happened with 3M FCP quickly became hot. So I ended up with this combo for about 2 hours with some testing here and there. Wool pad plus 2 "peas" EF and 2 "peas" FCP .. This was pretty much product on the pad. This gave me the ability to run very long and with very little pressure. So I achieved good correction by running a long time instead of with pressure. While the heat remained low. Took a long time thoug .... Two rounds at the car, and just rubbing took both well up to 30 hours alone .... It was followed by a round of 3M EF and orange Scholl pad. Run a spread pass as two passes with a little pressure of about 1500rpm, followed by 3-5 "enjoy" passes. A little more info is added around the pictures .. While I was doing polishing the rear I filled a chip in front of the car. Chips was washed with silicone remover and inspected for any loose flakes. And put the primer on the deepest notches. So it was 2-3 fillings of color depending on how deep the wounds were. This was left to stand a few hours before the first layer of clearcoat. Mixed 50/50 hardener and paint this time to test. It disappears a bit more in evaporation but the paint is quickly hard ... .. and very HARD ... simply by grinding the tops down was hard. I will be mixing 1:3 as usual the next time. Scratches and marks were pretty hard to get away, since the paint is medium hard and fiberglass and plastic are not so fond of heat, it was difficult to drive hard on the RDS and other brands. So I ended up sanding down all the scratches and marks with either 3M pad 9my or crescent-P1000 and P3000 followed by 3M Trizact paper. Then disappeared brands as easy as that. And there was a lot easier to have control of the heat, when there was no need to run as hard. Was just run as normal otherwise the car with 2-3 extra pass over the ground area. Then it was a little more masking and dismantling I found out. Masked and ready for som combo testing Result after one round of orange pad and EF…. Not exactly the kind of result I was after. A little better after EF and wool, but still not good enough… This was the combo i ended up with after some more testing.. Result was good and only some light hollograms, but it was easly fixed with fine pollishing. Ended up like this after a round of orange scholl and EF.. satisfied with the shine.. Some random workshots and some 50/50s… 50/50 At the end of the day som padwashing and drying is needed… so they are ready for use the next day. I just love this possision……………………………… or??? Time for som hood 50/50 shots…. Stop joking around and get back to work… Was having a hard time getting out all the scratches on the hood and wanted to have really good Finnish on this car so it was only to find some wetsandingpaper and remove any scratches and marks. Sanded with P1000 and P3000 on the major fields and 9my paper on the scratches. Was the penalty round, when clearly one of the MF had a boss in it and made "micro" scratches ... ... .. Micro scratches after MF on the leftside of the picture… before… during After Prelimanery results after orange and EF Started to get a litlle tired of polishing so i tried some other styles… nedles to say it didnt work that well…. But it’s always nice to try something new.. Spark throwing FLEX not a good sign….. (bad picture) Interior: Equiptment: -Foma Mimo -Chemical guys Green clean -interior brush -Scholl ice 9000 -Scholl purple 9000 -Swissvax leather cleaner -Swissvax leather milk -Swissvax leather brush -Swissvax Seal feed -div MF Started with a vacuum to the best ability to get the most "loose" dirt before I started with something else, all the details, air wents, etc. were taken with the data set for the vacuum Biltema. Found some tickets from a "Rogers" game, and the car has been in Norway for about 14 years. I started cleaning carpets inside and floor mats. There was some sand in this one might say. Seats were cleansed were leather cleaner and brush, two rounds to clear as much as possible before they got to stand and dry while I washed the rest of the interior with green and clean microfiber that I rinse in water frequently. Takes a lot of shit this green clean, it was not long before the water was completely black. Followed this up with a few sprays of purple 9000 and light wipe with a dry MF. This leaves a nice mate half shiny finnish and gives a "new car" appearance. And finally mats added and seats installed with leather milk. All seals had a good round with seal feed and were left without the touch overnight. That doors and top open. And finally windows inside got a round of ice 9000 and glass MF. The starting point: Round of seal feed Carpet cleaning sprayed with Greeclean and worked in with interior brush before vacuuming Leather cleaning… going to let the pictures do the talking…. A picture says more than a thousand words… ROUND 1 ding ding. ROUNDE Interior done… LSP: Equiptment: -Swissvax Concorso US (since its a US car i just got have this) -Swissvax Autobahn -Swissvax pneu glossy -Swissvax seal feed -Nanolotus proff glassforsegling -3M scoth gard (impregnering) -Chemical guys bare bones -chemical guys new trim look gel But first a quick flush of the car with some control spray in the nooks and crannies to get away the polish dust. The roof was then well washed with greenclean and brush. Windscreen was also along the way cleaned with nanolotus window cleaning. And rinsed with water. When the car was back in the garage again I vacuumed the rooftop with Mimo before it got to stand and dry out the rest. A little flush with the IPA and Control Spray Spare wheel also needed to be cleaned.. Engine bay got a new round of Greenclean and MF before hoses got sealfeed and covers got new look trim gel. The car got back its freshly painted front fender. Front lip was washed and put in with the new look trim gel before installation. Then the entire car was run with Cleaner Fluid Pro. Was a bit with rotary and blue über and a bit of DA and green über. Because my flex began to spit flames and sparks. Going at the speed it wanted itself. Probably the brushes. All seals in the engine room was seal feed. the entire car had two layers of concorso U.S.. This was the goodies to work with. Was not really very confident after buffing, but when it was left to stand a few hours before layer number two, I was standing looking at it for a while with my chin on his chest and think WOW ... So I went on withlayer number two, with a smile from ear to ear. And thought, hoping the owner would be just as happy as me .. Tires and rims had pneu got a layer of autobahn after a quick round of autosol and CG polishing ball. Wheel Arches had a second layer of barebones. New lok trim gel before mounting lip. The vax was left to stand for about 10-15 minutes before buffing Some few after photos……. So was the car done. The customer seemed satisfied and was not sure if he would drive it home. And thought that he now should perhaps go to a carshow which I fully agree on. do not think there are many Corvettes in the country that’s this well maintained. Then I just used up an engine, a flex, a cordless drill and a memory card for the camera on this car ... .. Luck I guess I can`t say I've had this time ....
thanx! The interior was realy bad, dont think its been cleaned for a while.. Thanx much appreciated!!! used some hours on this one...
