Kevin Brown method and ONR mist?

Dear fellow detailers,

Please note that:
1) I'm not pretending this will improve the KB method
2) I'm not a pro

This is a simple question. While testing the KB method, after the typical 3-drops + pressure step, I found that spraying a tiny bit of diluted ONR on the panel to keep working it without pressure improved the finish, reduced the micro-marring and dust.

Am I hallucinating? Has anybody tried this? Would simple water give the exact same behavior or if the ONR lubricant gives a little plus?

Thanks

 

I thought I had read some folks using water or qd or whatever during the KBM method but warned it could reduce the cutting power of whatever compound you are using.

I think a lot of folks do what you are doing, but not necessarily with ONR.

 

My question was specifically about ONR, which gets a lot of praises for its good lubricant properties. This could potentially act as a cheap alternative for the oils found in for example the Menzerna products?

 

The only thing that matters is if it works for you. If its getting you the results you want, keep it up.

 

You are just using ONR like people do a QD. Something to add more lubricity to a drying product (or a product you think needs more lubricity).

Yes, you are using ONR. No you aren't doing anything that hasn't been done with other products before.

 

Well now I'm confused because Kevin himself wrote this on another forum:

 

Good point. Perhaps I miss interpreted something he said (or someone else said they do).. or I'm thinking of something else? (rotary?)

 

I dont know if it is the same way with a rotary, but with a DA if the pad gets too wet, too much friction takes place and the glue on the back of the pad can start to melt and cause the pad to separate from the velcro. That, or the pad can collapse.

 

If you are using a product with NON-diminishing abrasives, this is not recommended. IF you are using a product with dimishining abrasives, then something as simple as distilled water in a spray bottle is all you need.

This was more process for Dodo Juice Lime Prime (w/ abrasives). Did not apply the KBM to this as there was no need. However, the vehicle was being worked on in the sun, it was hot, and I misted the pad 2x with distilled water, applied soem product to he pad and spread it aroudn on the surface being worked and went to town withmy Flex. The water helps add some nominal lubricity due to some of the lubricants in the Lime Prime I was using drying too quickly due to the hot/heated panel.

Non-diminishing abrasives will clump when an additional lubricant is introduced.

KBM, with the right product, pad and machine is a defect killer!

 

1. KBM points to consider when using a random orbital:

Maximize the polishing capabilities of the pad by thoroughly priming it with the buffing liquid.

Minimize the cushioning effects of the pad by applying downward pressure to the machine.

Adjust downward pressure to maintain some random rotation of the backing plate. More rotation is better for defect removal. Less rotation is better for final polishing.

Clean the pad throughout the process. Compressed air is BY FAR the best tool for the job.

Maintain pressure throughout the polishing cycle. This goes for defect removal as well as final polishing.

Prepare the pad for final polishing by priming it and then letting it sit for a couple minutes. Prior to use, remove the excess product from the pad by placing the pad face onto a microfiber towel. Run the machine for a few seconds until the excess material is removed.

Then, apply small amounts of buffing liquid as needed. The goal is to have enough polish available to abrade paint away, but not so much that there are clumps of buffing liquid on the pad face or in the pore structure of the pad.

Introducing a spritz of water or detail spray is a no-no because although cutting power may increase, so too will scouring. Besides- wet pads are not helpful.

If scouring is noticeable when the buffing liquid is applied by machine but not by hand, then the pad is the culprit- not the machine. Use a different pad (size or material), or adjust pressure, speed, and amount of product until satisfactory results are achieved.

2. Rotary Polisher / M105

1. Prime the pad THOROUGHLY.
a. Rub it in with your hand. It'll take a bit more than you're used to applying.
b. Apply a bead of M105 to the surface, pull it in, and polish at low speed (1000RPM).
2. Try 2-3 passes, or until the M105 is just starting to dry.
a. Using a fine mist, spray the surface with water.
b. Do not add additional product- Just re-polish with what's already in the pad.
I think you'll see a 50% improvement in the cut, but you'll probably see an increase in swirling (it can be easily removed).
After trying this method (count it as one cycle), spur the wool pad (or blow it clean with compressed air if you have it).



KBM - Kevin Brown Method - Detailing World

 

I still have not tried this "kevin brown method". I use a process that works well for me, which I think is actually called the double zenith method. This process works the best for me, but of course it won't work the best for everyone.

The kevin brown method just seems too specific, and seems like it would take longer, since you have to prime pads, stop the buffer midway through the process to spritz with water, etc. Too many steps for me lol. I just start the machine (rotary) at low rpms to spread the product, ramp up to about 1000 rpms while applying slightly more pressure, then ramp up again to about 1500rpms while applying medium pressure until polish goes clear, then drop back to 1000 rpms with lighter pressure for a few passes.

Of course, the rpm ranges change depending on how the paint reacts or the polish I am using. An easy way to remember this method is the faster the rpms, the more pressure applied.