Can anyone recommend a good technique for poliseal? Should I use moderate or light pressure? what speed should I work it at? I was spreading it at like 2, then worked it at 4-4.5 and used so-so pressure I guess, worked it for a minute then eased right up and made a few passes then shut it off. So should i work it faster? More Pressure? Different pad, using a white LC pad....
Yea you can get about 5-6 total passes before removing(as poliseal is a bit hard to see). LC white and Orange IMO are where this product really shines(no pun intended). Apply and spread quickly, then bump to speed 5 or 6 then get about 4-6 passes and remove residue( or just buff over the polished surface to remove what you really wont see ). You can use moderate pressure but I like to lighten up on that final pass I make. Passes are a little faster compared to defect removal with typical products. The product is a essentially a chemical cleaner polish so any defect removal will come from your pad selection and pressure. Of course this will vary depending on paint type. You know youre using enough(but not way too much) if when youre doing your passes, you can see a slight trail of product that disappears quickly under the lights. Almost like it flashes away but you see the trail the whole time.. Awesome product, I use it alot.
What speed do you use, and how much product per panel, couple of pea sized drops? how fast do you move when using poli? Isn't the standard for defect removal 1-2" a sec so about 3-4 be good? Are the flat pads better or should i look into some ccs pads?
I mist with ANY QD , even ONR sometimes then I use a 5 smaller than pea dots to prime - or a thin light X pattern then maybe 3-4 smaller than pea dots per 2x2ish area. With poliseal you can use a bit less and still get optimal results.. Too much and it can gum up too fast forcing you to clean your pad more often. On the PC I only use speed 5 to spread any and everything, and most working in occurs with speed 6. I think the flat pads you have are excellent choices, with Poliseal, because it can gum up if you use too much, I wouldn't want to have the dimples of the CCS hold product prolonging unnecessary work time or to clog with residue. I prefer flat, there really is no advantage to CCS if you are working product and process effectively And like I said, the LC orange(which I personally LOVE) and the flat white which you have are great choices..
I can't find any flat orange LC pads now.... Only ones i can find are the CCS style pads now. I also se they have a green CCS pad that is more aggressive then white but less aggressive then the orange. I was thinking of getting a few orange ccs pads and a green pad maybe and a gold or get 2 green.... What's the gold pad good for? I also have a flat black pad.... Which i never use because i don't have anything to use it for besides probably ex-p.
Autowerkes Exclusive :: LC Clasic Flat 5.5" Orange Pad :: 2008 :: Shop Youre from the north right? Ken is a good guy. He can probably hook you up with a cheap custom shipping quote if youre buying "light".
should i pick up up anything else? seems like the green is a nice pads or should i just stick to the white and orange ones? i already have a flat black one.
Yea the LC green is supposed to be an in between orange and white. For what its worth to you, LC makes a coarse green pad and a finer green pad. I like the finer green, it seems a bit softer(to my hands when squeezing it) but a lot of guys like both. I personally think you have all bases covered if you have the orange, white and black. Great combo and I always say those 3 pads are super versatile, you can do a lot with them. And I dont know what your budget is but I would grab a couple orange pads and then maybe this if you are just trying stuff. Autowerkes Exclusive :: Duragloss 501 Marine & RV Polish :: 2008 :: Shop - super paint cleaner with a great sealant in it. Leaves the paint super slick and is toppable with anything. Just as an intro to DG if you haven't been introduced yet.:headbang:
Later this summer i will probably give the car a good going over... My car was repainted though when i bought it... they did the hood, front fender to the about the rear quarter on the passenger side, i also believe they did the rear bumper . The accdient wasn't that bad but they redid the whole side of the car. They also did the front bumper but that's getting redone this summer as it has been banged up by be last winter. I don't think they did a wonderful job on the paint so i dunno what to do really. What could i do? Stick to the white pad when using 2.5, or not even touch 2.5 and stick with 2.0 on the white pad or with 2.0 bump up to the orange pad? Just totally unsure of how it will turn out, not sure on pressure to use, speed, etc... Like the car was color matched primed, painted and cleared but the paint job is a kinda lighter and darker in spots, some spots have like a weird spider web effect to them... Just not a totally uniform looking paint job, from like a few feet away, you can't even notice really. Just worried about removing clear, stripping paint etc..... I don't think the orange pad and poliseal will hurt the paint any even if they didn't do a wicked job, will it? I will be introduced to DG this week when my aquawax comes in :headbang:
Poliseal wont hurt it. As far as your polishing progression, start with something like SSR2 on white, a middle of the road combo. Not too crazy aggressive, but nothing too mild it if needs the correction. If it leaves haze you know you need to finish it out with something lighter, 1 on white or black. Again this will give you an idea if the paint is really soft, if it hazes really badly(though removing swirls or trails). Poliseal on orange should give a really nice cleaning to the paint, the orange pad will knock down some of the lighter imperfections as well just don't KILL it with pressure, moderate pressure lightening up at the end. If for some reason the pad leaves a little haze- then you know you could probably step down to white with poliseal and you will be good. Do you have any photos you could share with us regarding the paint and color differences?
So if i hit it with poliseal on orange and it leaves haze, go back over it with poliseal on white to polish out the haze and continue with the white for the whole car, or do the whole car with orange then switch to white? On silver would haze be apparent? Or Do i need a halogen light to see it? So when polishing, if it hazes bad after ssr2 on the white, that means the paint is quite soft and then have to finish it with 1 on white or black? If this is required could i use poliseal on black or white to finish off ssr2? I will try and get some good photos to show you, thanks a lot though for all your help. I tried other forums sometimes for answers and never got anything,it's really nice that here i have got more answers to questions then i ever did on other forums. Thanks guys :headbang:
Do a test section first, do one on the original paint, and then one on the newest painted sections first to see what the reaction is. Nothing would be worse than going over the entire car, then going back and seeing haze and having to go over the whole car again with something else. If you do a test spot with something mild or something moderately mild, and it finishes down really nice, then you can leave and seal or wax it. A couple main things can cause haze(or micromarring/hologramming). I will try my best to touch on these without writing pages and pages so you get the idea. Keep in mind a lot of combinations of variables can cause this. -harder abrasives- abrasives for ceramiclear paints, like SIP will sometimes haze softer paints or micromar it/hologram if on a rotary because of their initial cutting that is harder to remove EVENTHOUGH the abrasives refine themselves, the initial work done by then are so uniform that superficial imperfections are removed but the product/pad may leave some marks that can usually be polished away. - the pad it just might be the pad aggression level that can micromarr or haze just from the foam type - The initial cut of the product. As the abrasives are self-refining in your SSRs(as well as any other diminishing abrasive) the initial cut may haze/marr/hologram and That would require a finer abrasive, a finishing polish sometimes even if that product was finished down - sometimes it just leaves a little something to cleanup. Harder paint types are more resistant to hologramming/hazing/micromarring -The machine and speed - A perfect example of this is some Subaru paints which IMO are nice to work on, as well as the e90 series jet blacks. They(the BMW e90s) hologram so easily(the rotary equivalent to a PC's micromarring or hazing) if you don't progess your products and pads down and importantly if you don't use the correct product, worked correctly and finished down, it holograms. I have had the pleasure and it is truly patience testing and humbling. So in your case, why don't you TRY SSR1 on white, if that does nothing, then step up to SSR2 on white(you can use that same pad as long as you move up in aggression and not down) then if SSR2 on white doesnt do anything, try orange, THEN finally move up again. The higher you get with aggression the more likely it is you will require another set pass with a finer product to remove the haze associated with the aggressive stuff. Example: Wool with Powergloss -->Orange with SIP---> white with 106ff Using Menzerna as a arbitrary brand. If SSR2 on white takes out your defects, but is a bit hazy, then all you need to do is a quick cleanup with either poliseal on white(if you can get away with it) OR SSR 1 on white. I would recommend a halogen if you have it, set away at a distance - too much light on silver or whites will drown out any defects you could otherwise see. Sunlight may allow you to see defects but then again may drown out the lighter hazing and other stuff from your polishing. Which could work with or against you depending on how you look at it:thud: But to answer your very first thing Yes, if Poliseal on orange cleans up the light marks but leaves a bit of haze, all you would need is a couple passes with PS on white(maybe black if its THAT soft) to cleanup that haze. Keep in mind that Poliseals "cut" is dependent on the pad(which again MAY haze itself). PS has no real abrasives to speak of, basically a chemical cleaner that provides the pad lubrication to do the "cutting" or "polishing" work. :thumb:
Awesome.... With the SSR's should I use for pressure? Moderate? What should i use for speed? I imagine it be slower then 5 haha. If the ssr2 on white took out my defects, without haze move directly to poliseal then like optiseal but if there is haze present move too ssr1 on white, and what would i use for pressure/speed for that? Also i would probably only need a few passes correct? For poliseal on orange, with haze present, what speed/pressure for the poliseal on white after? Also, the garage i have is decent size but probably wouldn't be able to put the light that far away... i'd more then likely have to do it outside during the day, i could try in the garage also.
SSRs can be moderate pressure, if you put too much on, you bog the machine, you can hear the motor slow, I would pressure until bogged down, then left off so the speed is back up to unbogged. As the polish begins to clear visually, or after you have made about 5 complete passes, then start to lighten up gradually each pass a little.. Poliseal is a little lighter in pressure, still moderate. Speed 6 when working the product down, when its clear, if you want you can back down to 5 for that final slow light pressure pass. Speed on the PC - life begins at speed 6, friend. Product on pad, spread pad on surface, turn machine on speed 4 or 5 to spread to even coverage, then jack it up to 6 and work it in. If the ssr2 on white took out my defects, without haze move directly to poliseal then like optiseal but if there is haze present move too ssr1 on white, and what would i use for pressure/speed for that? Also i would probably only need a few passes correct? yep. poliseal just to clean it from any residue or anything left on, add a bit more gloss and a ton of slickness then optiseal and drool. For poliseal on orange, with haze present, what speed/pressure for the poliseal on white after? With white you can use moderate pressure, again a couple passes with moderate, then lighten up for the final 2-3 passes, slightly lighter each pass. Use speed 5-6. Again, if you want you can lighten up pressure to just machine weight or a a lb or 2 and just glide before wiping residue. Then check to see and you should be ready to optiseal and drool. One thing with these products and polishing in general, is you may not be able to keep the same polishing style you develop on each and every car. You may find your style is a bit too mild and you have to change either pressure or speed or pad or something. Contrary you may like to work aggressively(relative, of course) and you may need to slow the speed down or pressure down or use a gentle approach. Have fun and take the time to develop a style you are comfortable with. There are fundamentals we all adhere to, but you choose your style and approach.
Thanks for all your help If i have to move down to SSR1 on white after using SSR2, use again moderate pressure on 5-6 for a few passes then let off? And if i were to create a haze after ssr1(which i doubt) Hit that with SSR1 again on black, or could i use like Poliseal on black to finish everything off, or does SSR1 have less of a polishing capability? Atleast i know now, use speed 5-6 for just about everything from AIO to a Polish/Compound, use moderate pressure(enough to create heat and work in abrasives but never bog the machine down), and the last few pass let off and let it glide to a finish with about machine weight..... So is there any instances, Like when working a polish/compound i should use heavy pressure like bogging down the machine? One more thing, how fast would you move the machine on the paint surface when using a polish like SSR, and an AIO like Poliseal?I heard like 1-2" a second for like SSR and faster for an AIO, this correct? As far as speed goes, It shouldn't have any negative effects workin at 5-6 and if i fo, which i doubt slow down some?. Work the product faster on the surface by moving the machine along faster correct? I will find out in the summer months if my paint is any good Plus using orange shouldn't hurt but if it does i will probably stick to white even though there might still be defects lef on the surface, something i will have to live with, some defects are better then f'in up my paint lol
Products typically "work" "faster" by being under some pressure. Thats using the abrasiveness of the polish as the "worker" With some polishes you will work FOREVER if you just let the machine glide, those cases you would be there for days. And no you shouldnt see any negative effects by speed 5 or 6 typically. You definitely have the correct ideas. Polishing, once you understand the fundamentals, or learn them is really a skill unique to the person holding the polisher.:thumb:
as a noob on DB thanx for the discussion on poli-seal, bought some to try on family members vehicles. Your conversation of this product is going to be very helpful thanx again
