If you had any doubts as to the correction abilities of a PC, wonder no more. Take a look at this thread.
gmblack3a aka bryan - his work is top notch and he definitely proves that the PC can do the work of a rotary. i really enjoy his write-ups!
Hi BigAl3 - welcome aboard! I read through the write up and was amazed they did all the correction with pcs!
Glad to see the use of the Surbuf pads.Went to a little get to-gether a few months ago down in Evansville In put on by PorscheGuy997 and Jason Rose.Chris did a demo with these pads and later had everyone who wanted to, try their hands at it. Makes you think the PC was on steroids.Used in combination with a paint thickness meter , they are a great combination to add to ones arsenal. Paul S
Cool deal, will be looking forward to hear your results Ken. I'm still contemplating what sizes I should get... :shead:
The method known and the Kevin Brown Method and a PC is truly remarkable. Bryan has really tweaked it and it shows in all his work
I'm interested in finding out more about these pads. Let me know what models you guys are using, etc.
Gentleman, I thank you all for your kind words. I just posted the thread here for you to see. I will try to answer a few questions about using a surbuf pad with the KBM, which is totally different from using a orange pad with the KBM. I see folks asking about the XPPC which I used and have been using since it came out. Bret actually used his 7424 to do the right side. He was able to correct panels at the same speed that I did. I like the new XPPC, but I really don't see it being that much of an improvment over the 7424 when it comes to speed of correction. I really like the way it feels in my hands over the 7424. Sufbuf pad size. Kevin told me from the start to use the 7" surbuf pad with your 6" BP. So that is all I have used and have had great results. The small microfingers that make up the surbuf pad's face need to bend at an angle which the 7" pad and 6" BP works together perfectly. I will order some of the 4" pads the next time I order some pads to try. For cutting severe defects with a PC, I use the surbuf pads with a M105. I call this the KBSBM. This process can be messy. 7" surbuf pad. 6" BP PC or XPPC Straight IPA 1. Do not prime the surbuf pad. 2. Apply 4 "larger then pea sized" dots of M105 to the pad. 3. Work the polish into an 12x12" area without turning on your PC. 4. Spritz the surface with water. 5. As in step 3, again work the polish around without turning on your PC, you are looking for a milky consistency. 6. Turn on PC to speed 6 and work the polish till it appears to dry. 7. Spritz more water onto the suface and continue to polish. What this does is bring the polish out of the pad and back to the surface. 8. I have found that you will need IPA sprayed onto your MF to remove the M105 from the surface. 9. Inspect and repeat if needed. Notes: If you find that one time is not enough to remove defects, you can always repeat #7 and keep on polishing. After 2-3 sections, you will need to clean the pad by brushing off the pad and blowing out the excess polish with compressed air. After the pad becomes overly saturated w/ polish clean with warn water and some APC. Spin to dry. The pad does not have to be totally dry to use it again. I have removed severe defects and 2000 grit wetsanding marks with this method. Depedning on the hardness of the clear, you "might" be able to go right to M205 with a gray finishing pad via the KBM. Sometimes a middle step with M105/orange pad via KBM is required. IMO this method will level paint as good as a rotary.
This is using the KBM with an orange pad/M105: Prime the entire face of the clean/dry flat orange pad, ensure you have polish in every pore. Apply 3-4 dots of M105 to the pad. Apply enough pressure at speed 6 so that the pad is still spinning, but slowly. Ensure that the pad is spinning and not stopped. Wipe the M105 from the surface with a MF and inspect the area. If the M105 become difficult to remove from the surface wipe it away with straight IPA. After each use wipe the pad accross a MF to clean the pad. Then apply 4 more dots of polish and repeat. After a few uses brush the pad clean and blow compressed air to clean out the dust. You will still see residual polish on the pad. After so many uses the pad will loose its cut as its just clogged with too much polish and clear from the surface. Clean the pad by spraying APC 1:4 onto the pad and wash it w/ warm water in the sink. Make sure you get all the soap and polish rinsed out. Spin the pad out into a bucket with your PC or a rotary if you have one. Let the pad air dry fully by placing it in from of a fan. Of course you will need more then a few pads to complete this process. Prime a fresh pad and start again. If you have any 4" orange pads and the proper backing plate, use the above method to spot polish those deeper scratches. Follow with M205 and a white or gray flat pad using the same process as above, you will not have to work the areas as long. If you don't have M205 use a finish polish with a white pad.
gmblack3, its really helpful tips for all of us. what is KBM? how about megs PC G220? does it work using surbuf pad? sorry, Im newbie in detailing. thanks
KBM=Kevin Brown Method. I have never used a G200, but I am pretty sure if a 7424 PC works then the G220 should as well.
Amazing what you can accomplish with the PC and Meguiar's Super Micro Abrasive Technology. Beautiful results.