Gloss it - tell me more about it...

Well, a matter of opinion, so IMO, GI is just as durable as Zaino, but in the looks department GI takes the price by far. I was never impressed by the look of Zaino , which IMO lacks depth and is a bit too sterile (again, my opinion). GI produces amazing depth, gloss and wetness with the warmth of a carnauba (tha's gold right there). I don't know of any other sealant out there that will give this type of look.

 

thanks ... Im going to place order the GI sample finishing kit then ... hopefully the shipping cost to indonesia is under budget ...

 

Zaino is I belive an older amino functional resin based system
This and any other sealant system can not compare to the crystal lacquer we use and I'm sure Gloss it's special sealant system which is best of both (sealant and nuba) worlds

What is most interest to me is how the abrasives are milled.
I don't agree with the speeds rich suggest to correct paint with their products and a rotary as I prefer to use 600 to 1000 rpm for all my correction with a true non filling product that removes half as much paint as Menz Power Gloss would and corrects all that it would and more and in about 10 to 30 seconds, whether it be ceramic, self healing reflow paint or waterborne clears.

I believe Rich's system is Kaolin Clay based not Aluminium oxide, Silica or Diatomaceous earth
That may have it's issues though. I feel that Zirconium oxide is the next generation of abrasive oxides.

 

That's funny because, as I was adjusting the high-flow down-draft dubulator valve on my 2010 high-pressure test flow spinnerator, I noticed that the level of my blinker fluid had fallen under the manufactuer specs. That being the case, I think I am now forced to re-adjust the inner/outer coagulation monitoring system to enable quicker activation of system flow kanuter fluxuator.

Andy

 

I'm sorry but that doesn't make any sense. You remove paint defects by removing and leveling the paint.

So if you have a scratch that is 4um deep, and Powergloss removes 3.5um, then that is almost fully corrected and can be corrected with a finishing step for 100% correction.

Now, what you are suggesting is that you can take out the 4um deep scratch by removing 2ums of paint? What? :shead: The fact that you are correcting paint at 600 rpms and then jeweling finishing jeweling at 1500 rpms after 16 minutes tells me that you have *A LOT* to learn about paint correction.

 

^^^:giggle:

 

^^^:agree:

 

Isnt kaolin clay a known filler?

 

Has anyone ever noticed that asparagus makes your pee smell funny??

Andy

 

different gloss it adds more to it. The fk425 feels slicker, and does attract a small amount less dust. But If I want my car to look its best its gloss it all the way. For dust bird droppings qd while drying its always fk425.

 

Lets try to be a little more respectful of each other guys and keep the criticisms to ourselves. Just because someone doesn't do things the way you think he should doesn't make it wrong. Maybe structure your response so its constructive ie: explain how you would do it in comparison. :thumb:

 

Yea, sorry you're right Ken.

Ok, Dream Machines, basically, one of the main points of using a rotary is so you can build up heat in an effective way, it helps to break down the polish more effectively. The higher the RPMs, the faster you are going to be correcting the paint. So essentially, you want to be working at around 1500 rpms so you are cutting into the paint, but cutting that much leaves micro-marring, so that's why we move down in RPMs as the polish begins to break down. 600 rpms is what you want to be finishing on, so you are gently milling the diminishing abrasives into the paint so as to take out the micro-marring instilled by the heavier cutting by the higher speeds.

I go 1500 for a 3-6 passes, so that's my main working period where I am removing most of the defects since the abrasives are still pretty heavy and beginning to break down. 1200 for a couple passes, 1100, 900, 700, done. You get the idea, also I use varying pressures but that took me a very long time to perfect so I'm not going to get into it. My working time is about 3-4 minutes, then jeweling, is about 6 minutes w/ PO85RD. One of the main things you should learn is when a polish flashes, because when it does you are just going to be rubbing foam against the paint with some leftover oils which won't be beneficial at all, and in fact actually degrading to the finish that you just left on the paint, unless it is a no-cut pad.

 

Heat does not break down polish, the friction between the pad, polishing particles and paint break down the polish by shearing action and heat is a by product of this friction. Just had a convo with Mike Phillips about this on AG.

 

Yea, actually, now that you mention that I just remembered that TOWGT said the same thing and it slipped my mind. My b :doh:

BTW Dream Machines, I'm sorry about my disrespectful post before.

 

Man I feel like I'm walking on egg shells around here > :tiptoe:

All I can say is the Method Dream Machine uses is Polar Opposite to what I know :hmph:

:sorry: If I offended anyone by posting these response earlier > :agree:

If I get the boot for this one, surely it will be a first....Getting Banned for using Smiley...:help:

 

So, I made an order last night of the sampler. Sounds like a little goes a long way? If that is truly the way I am able to make it work, then this could be financially more viable than a lot of products I've tried. For my higher end nuba finishes, I THINK I will continue using SW...kinda going with what I know.

But, I'm pretty excited to give it a shot. The grey woll sounds AWESOME!! Just so I get the hang of it, my first car will be...my ex-wife's!!!:thumb:

Wish me luck, Boys!!!

Andy

 

Recently tried their leather cleaner and conditioner and both are freaking incredible. The scent, look and feel they leave behind on the leather is incredible.

 

Thanks Doc!!!! Like I said, I'm actually excited at the oppotunity to try something that is not only new to me but new to the industry. Getting in on the ground floor!!!!

Andy

 

Tell you what...the customer service is awesome!!! I have to say that Gloos-It and Phil at Detailer's Domain are by far the best customer service focused companies I've worked with in a very long time!

I am happy to do business with them both!!!

Andy

 

Isn't heat a by-product of the friction??? I mean, if it were soley friction, wouldn't the breakdown occur the moment the pad spins??
Andy