Talked to a guy yesterday that has an older Red Chevy pick up. It was repainted 5 years ago and has a clear coat. The truck looks great well most of it. The hood and roof are oxidized like no tomorrow. I looked at it and asked him who tried to fix it. He pulled out Meguiars Ultimate Compound and said he tried by hand. He bagan to talk and tell me how he builds cars and use to detail. Well I took 2 pics with my phone to try and get some direction from the experts here. I have never had paint this bad before. Using a PC what form of attack can I try? I was thinking of M105 on an Oranage LC Pad maybe step up to the 3.5 PFW or a 4" yellow foam? here are the pics
You can try hitting a section with a less aggressive polish, such as Megs #205 or something in that range. Do a test section first, see how it comes out, BEFORE stepping to a more aggressive polish like 105.
If you want, you can try hitting it with a chemical paint cleaner before jumping to the likes of M105 and a compounding pad. Another thing to consider is that as you're removing the oxidation, it'll be very likely that this oxidation will be gumming up your pad as well so several pads or pads being spurred will be necessary. Good luck.
I know I am a new guy here, but just to add my 2cents. I have never heard of a clear coat oxidizing. Most likely what happened was the use of a compound by hand. In my limited knowledge I don't know of a compound that is used by hand. That's not to say there is none, just that I have never heard of one.:shrug: Joe
My wording was def wrong lol, I always do a test spot I learned the importance of that first hand lol. I always start with the least aggressive combo and work up. A good chemical cleaner hmm anyone know how 501 cleans up oxidation? I use this all the time for reg paint cleaning. If I need to polish I will start with M80 and work myself up if needed. Thanks guys
Sal... I would first try Meg's DACP(#83)....see if that cuts the oxidation...use a yellow or orange cut pad..do a test area..work it..it may take 2-3 attempts....if it cuts it since it does have abrasives also...then proceed using it....funny that the clear is oxidized...unless the painter used some cheap ass clear and no additives....once you start cutting the paint....you may find it is S/S paint....and your pads may turn red...bring alot of pads incase...lol.... after your done and paint is good..then i would do DG501 since it is loaded with UV products to prevent oxidation...and I would leave it on the paint also..no topper..it is durable as all hell...trust me.... using a PC on that oxidation is going to be some what of a challenge ..you should have a rotary and some wools..it would take no time to correct that..but do the best you can.... Oh..once you get the oxidation cut..drop down a pad..go green or white..to see how it finishes off....it will break down to a finish polish...it is a diminishing type polish Now..DACP can be a bitch to work with....but it works..and best with a PC for that job... good luck Al
Thanks AL I have 83 have not used it much since 105/205 combo lol. I need to pick up a rotary real bad, been slacking on it after all the Kevin Brown method talks.
Sal..I had a similar job I actually picked up as a referral from Autopia. Here it is. I had him bring it over to do a test panel to see if it would correct. I have not heard from him so I don't know how long it lasted. When the paint gets heavily oxidized, sometimes the cure is only temporary. If he's a paying client, make damned sure he clearly understands that.
[I have never heard of a clear coat oxidizing. ] :thumb: An oxidizer- is any compound that spontaneously emits oxygen either at room temperature or under slight heating. Many chemical compounds react vigorously at ambient temperatures as the oxidizing process takes place. Oxidation is caused by environmental pollutants (acid rain, ozone, industrial pollutants, hydrocarbons, etc) the suns heat, which also causes paint colour fading from ultraviolet radiation (UVR) inclement weather or the use of harsh detergents, all of which attack the paints binder system(resin) It starts as a chemical reaction that causes the resin binder system to overheat and dry out, leaving microscopic surface imperfections and micro fissures in the paint film surface that are vulnerable to deterioration. Once the air borne contaminates and pollution compromises the paint surface they accelerate the oxidation (reduction) or paint failure process. Oxidation Clear coat paint does not oxidize; it fails and requires compound polishing to remove paint and re-painting to correct it. To remove the oxidized paint (Optimum Compound or Optimum Polish) with a cutting foam pad(s) (LC orange or yellow, PC speed #4, or a high speed rotary at 1100RPM In some instances a chemical cleaner (Zaino ZPC Fusion or Klasse All-In-One) and detailer’s clay or a suitable abrasive polish, dependant upon how severe the problem (Optimum Compound or Optimum Polish) with a cutting foam pad (LC orange or yellow, speed #4 or 1100RPM Rotary) may temporarily rectify the problem, if not the only then viable treatment would be replacement (i.e. repainting) An extract from one of a series of in-depth detailing articles © TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2008, all rights reserved
