With all the Kevin Brown craziness/hype going on, I thought I would make a nice thread showcasing the results you can achieve using his method using a rotary which is slightly different from his method with the foam pads. I have been working with Kevin for the past couple weeks trying to perfect this method, now I just need to get a DA so I can finish it off! For some reason I have not been able to get a ZERO hologram finish using my rotary and M205 or M105 on a finishing pad. I spoke with both Kevin Brown and Jason Rose today on the phone, thanks to Kevin once again for the contact. The first thing Jason pointed out was that I was not using the new Soft-Buff 2.0 Finishing pad which M205 was specifically designed around and apparently does not play well with others UNLIKE M105. Not even other Megs pads, I was using both the Soft-Buff(non- 2.0) Yellow and Tan and could not get the desired results I was looking for. I even tried both M105/205 on black Lake Country Finishing pads with even worse results. I was running out of time to experiment with my new bottle of 205, so I ended up finishing with 3m Ultrafina on a 3M UK Finishing Pad. I will be purchasing some more 2.0 pads and give it another shot. Once I get my DA, I am positive I will have a better experience as well. WARNING: If you are not open to learning new skills, please press the back button on your browser. :hide: What I have learned: -Kevin Brown IS THE MAN! -The KB method DOES INDEED WORK! AND VERY WELL! -You can almost get LSP ready results even using a heavy wool pad, of course this is dependent upon the paint, but even on the softer paints with a foam cutting pad you can achieve great cut and an even better finish! (my new favorite is the Megs Soft-Buff 2.0 Burgandy FOAM) -M205 apparently is pad temper-mental. Im going to give it another go with the new pads and hopefully Ill get me G110 this week as well! -Kevin Brown IS THE MAN! This is how the car looked when it arrived..I got this 2001 Mercedes SLK230 two days ago, and we'll just say it wasn't in great shape...AT ALL! In fact, the paint(specifically the trunk)was in probably the worse shape I had seen. I was only hoping and praying M105 would be able to tackle it even using the KB method.
:har: Im guessing at this point your asking yourself, THATS IT?!? Well of course not! I saved the good ones for its own post! :dance This is what I was working with on the trunk. Apparently the owner took some sort of "rocks in a bottle" compound by hand on a rag to try and remove some swirls, only putting some more MASSIVE swirls into the paint. I never thought I was going to be able to correct this, and if I did I thought for sure there would be a significant amount of RIDS left over..WRONG. The first combination I tried was M105 on a Megs Solo Yellow Wool using the instructions given to me by Kevin months ago. Just to avoid the confusion: Even in my first pass, I removed MOST of the heavy swirling but there were some RIDS still visible. I then decided to step it up to the Megs Solo Burgandy Wool just to see if the left over swirls were worth the chase. To my surprise, they were nearly COMPLETELY removed. After TWO passes with this combination, I got what I was looking for. PERFECTION! These pictures were taken directly after M105/Burgandy Wool. There was no middle or finishing steps taken. The same panel under the halogens..
I then moved on to the rest of the car, the other panels weren't nearly as bad as the trunk, but there were still some pretty deep defects throughout requiring two passes still. Note. These pictures were all taken directly after M105/Wool, no finishing steps taken. Passenger Rear 1/4 Panel. Some very deep defects on the passenger door. 50/50 after M105/Wool. Here, you can notice a very faint hologram, but still not bad for how aggressive this product works! Same Door. Door Corrected. Fender Not. Front Passenger Fender Uncorrected. 50/50. Fully Corrected.
I then moved onto the hood, which wasnt in the best of shape either. 50/50. Corrected. Besides the trunk, the next worst panel was the Drivers Rear 1/4 Panel. You can see even without any lighting just how swirled and hazy it is. A little closer inspection. After ONE pass with Burgandy Wool/M105. You can still see some deeper RIDS left over. 50/50. Now after TWO passes. Fully Corrected. Sorry about the fiber on the lense.
I removed the license plate so I could fully polish the entire trunk. Of course I cleaned up the mess from under the plates before polishing! :nana: Uncorrected. The trunk only required 1 pass be made with the burgandy wool/105. Here, you can see what my Menzerna bottles are getting used for these days. :nervous: A shot of M105 after polishing, ready for wipe-off. I forgot to add befores of the wheels, so Ill throw them in here before the final shots! :heelclick
Uh ohh, is that what I think it is...:nixweiss Yep, thats the beautiful FL sun after finishing polish!
Now for some reflection shots! My favorite part, this is where I can get creative with the SLR :grinno:
Here are some overall car shots. The car was sealed with Opti-Seal and two coats of P21S 100% Paste Wax.
I will usually spur and re-prime(although you dont need as much product) between each panel to keep the pad clean.
Wow, amazing detail. Did you just use the M105/wool combo or did you actually use a finishing pad and polish? Could you explain a little more on what pads to use with the KB method and which other pads (if any) didn't work so well? Thanks.
I used M105/Burgandy Wool for the first step. I had to do this twice though to remove everything since it was so bad, this isnt always or hardly ever necessary. I then tried M205 to finish, but I was having problems finishing down hologram free, so I switch to 3M Ultrafina on a 3M UK Finishing Pad. I spoke to Jason Rose(the creator of M105/205) and he thinks the reason I couldnt finish with 205 may have been because of the pads I was using. He suggested to use the Soft-Buff 2.0 Finishing pad for best results, I still have to give that a shot.
This KB method seems very doable. I for one would really like to try it with my rotary. I just need to get the understanding and the method on paper so I can study it. The detail and pictures are just awesome. Thanks for sharing...:thumb:
Give it a shot, I think you will be impressed! With such low speeds your are less likely to burn anything, but I would still recommend taping off edges. Use the process I posted in the second post, its the exact process I was taught by Kevin himself. Works like a charm!
Very nice, I've been using the KBPCM (KBM w/ PC-orange pad-M105) for the last 5 cars. Been very happy with those results, will have to try the KBRM (rotary) next. I use M205 with a PC and white pad and the finish is outstanding. I have a few of the softbuff polishing pads waiting at the local supply place for me. I'll have to look into the finishing pads for the rotary. Thanks for sharing.
I was recommend by Jason Rose to use the SoftBuff 2.0 Finishing pad with 205, he says the "old" versions sometimes will not cooperate well with 205. Whereas 105 can be used with an assortment of pads with great succes.
Billy, thank you very much for sharing. You've got me convinced that I need to try this. Question for you. How does one tell if a bottle of 105 or 205 is the "new" formula? Same question for the pads. Majestic Solutions has a bunch of 105 bottles sitting on the shelf, along with some Meg's pads, but I don't know how to tell whether or not they're the new versions or not. I don't see a copyright date anywhere on the labels to tell me "2009" or anything like that. Thanks again. Amazing results! This Kevin Brown guy seems to have stumbled into something pretty amazing.
Holy Moley those are incredible results. Can you clarify a few things for me? (picture the dunce cap on in the corner..) When you say prime the pad: do you mean with water or with the 105. I read the Autopia post with his original instructions saying to rub it in with your hand. It sounds like after priming, you lay a bead down and polish with heavy pressure at 1st and when it starts to disappear, stop, mist lightly and continue with less pressure. Have I got that right? And lastly, keep the speed at 1000 rpm? Thanks so much for sharing and your post. Now if I could just see a video of it, I'd be golden.
