What do you use to strip off old lsp? I've read that people use CG CWG and CWC so I went the CG site but shipping was $30 for a gallon and $20 for the 16oz. Is there somewhere else that has more reasonable shipping prices? Or is there another way that I could strip off wax? Also how can you tell if you wax has been stripped off already? by amount of beading/sheeting?
Do a normal wash with a higher concentrate of dishwashing detergent. It's simple to tell which cars have LSP left over and which don't but to tell how much is left over is very hard if not impossible. Just give it a wash with dish washing detergent and you should be golden. By the way I didn't know claying removes LSP
Okay, thanks. I heard dawn dishing washing soap was good also. But how do you tell if cars still have LSP left over?
I recently asked this question over at MOL, and it was suggested to me that I add to my wash solution 1oz of APC per gallon.
I would just wash it with Dawn, and you'll be in great shape! Probably the easiest way to strip your LSP...
To say that Dawn has been discussed thoroughly over at Autopia would be an understatement. A lot of interesting threads, though.
I've used Dawn in the past, and it did not appear to remove/weaken my LSP (I think it was CG's M-Seal that was on there for quite some time). After the wash the water still had some beading properties being exhibited on the paint surface. I had recently picked up a gallon of CG's CWC and plan on using it this weekend in my foam lance, so I'll try to report back, along with photos. I plan on using 4oz and the rest water in 32oz bottle from my foam lance. We'll see what happens :gasp:
i was told by numerous people to not use prepsol on paint or clear coated paint.. it rips out oils in the clear coat.. so you better have a nutritional wax to feed the clear/paint.. claying doesn't remove all the wax either...dawn rips oils out of trim and turns them gray fast same with prepsol.. same with isopropil. sure all of these workk but if you wax your car once a month..all of the above wouldn't be a good method..or every 3 months imo.. but twice a year and refeeding the trim and such will work.. but i think all that is not the way to go.. i prefer Swissvax cleaner fluid.. it is expensive but adds some gloss and enhances bonding with the oils it leaves behind whether it's js 109 or a swissvax wax i have seen great results lasting to 6 months where others just using iso and dawn are getting 3 at best.. i personally wash the car with triple the normal amount of swissvax, p21s, cg cwg.. CwG i am not a big fan of as it leaves a coating behind and when used in high concentration it is clingy and getting it off with a pressure washer takes double the time of the others..same with a regular hose and flooding it which is the best method. after that i clay the car then i give the car another wash and go at it with cleaner fluid. now i know what your saying that it's a lot of work but it's my hobby not my proffession.. i understand how other ways would be faster..esp using a harsh product like prepsol.. I have tried many methods and it is what works best for me.. cleaner fluid is the key in my eyes..when i haven't used it i saw my longevity drop in half.. everyone on here knows i push the stuff but imo it's worth every penny and a lil goes a long way. it's super easy to use pending you lay it down as thin as possible and pick it up right after.. even when i don't clay i get the same results.. the stuff helps with bonding too much for me to pass it up!! it's 100 times better than zymol hd cleanse imo..
[i was told by numerous people to not use prepsol on paint or clear coated paint.. it rips out oils in the clear coat.. so you better have a nutritional wax to feed the clear/paint.. claying doesn't remove all the wax either...dawn rips oils out of trim and turns them gray fast same with prepsol.. same with isopropil.] Modern clear coat paint is water-based so there is no oil to remove. The older oil-based pains required the resin (oil) to be replaced, hence the expression 'feeding the paint'. Detailer's clay removes 100% of any applied wax and approx 90%+ of any applied polymer sealant. DuPont's PrepSol and Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) are proven techniques used by body work and professionals detailers to prepare paint surfaces and will not harm paint Dawn detergent if used on a regular basis will tend to dry out trim.
Please stop spouting this nonsense. It is not true! I guess the thousands of body shops using Prepsol etc. don't know anything about paint huh? :shakehead: Thank you! I wish people would stop talking about clear coats like they are alive!
Hi, thanks everyone for all the responses. I'll probably try out dawn to see how it goes, but I'll most likely do the mix of IPA/water which seems most cost-efficient.
Same thing goes for 'leather' i.e. you need to feed and norish it with oils An analogy between automobile upholstery (finished pigmented leather), to a vehicles paint surface with a clear coat; A base material (metal) with a colour coat of water-based polymer paint Leather hide pigmented with a water-based polymer resin. A water-based polymer clear coat to provide protection Water-based polyethylene clear coating to provide protection Paint doesn’t need oils to feed it nor does leather; neither is a living thing. Leather was removed from a dead animal, it’s then fat-liquored to preserve its oils and then sealed, and it doesn’t need proteins, collagen, oils or creams to feed or condition it, even if they could permeate the various coverings.
I thought the milder clays would not remove much if any wax? This poster seems to believe his test shows it does not. See post #6 Clay then clean, or clean then clay? Porsche - Autopia.org
