Repaints and LSP?

So you think bad prep work wouldn't cause that. You obviously do not know about paint prep, that can also be caused by bad prep work. So bad paint prep is only when the paint peels, you are kidding right. So what is it when the paint bubbles and it has never been waxed, how the paint job was suppose to come out?

 

Here is a link for Dupont's warranty program.......

http://www.westbroadcollisioncenter.com/E-R1686 warranty coverage.pdf
Please read where it says for the first 120 days after painting.

 

Everybody shop I have had work done or worked at has said to wait 90 days after a respray. Infact the autobody classes I have taken say to wait 90 days to as long as 6 mo.s after a respray to put any sort of wax or sealant on the paint. It really depends on the paint system they use. I have gone so far as to ask the bodyshop what they have used and gone online and looked up how long to wait.
The solvents are not done flashing off even after they have baked the paint. All baking does is spead up the catalyst in it's process of crosslinking the polymer chains. It helps to a degree of the flashing off of the solvents, but it doesn't get all of them out. If you wax too early the paint in a worse case senario can bubble up called solvent pop (usually a sign of waaaayyy tooooo much solvnet) or what I have normally scene happen is that clear coat will turn cloudy. That really sucks because you then have to knock the paint down to the color coat and recolor coat the car then reclear the car.

 

I would agree manufactors are going to put a timetable on it, they would be a fool if they didn't. Who is not going to get something with some type of warranty after a repair is done. I have never seen paint bubble because of wax, it has been because of solvent pop as explained in the above post or poor prep work. I have seen over a thousand custom paint jobs and never seen one of them be effected by waxing.

 

this is what happend 2 months after my door was repainted. look right above the keypad at the bubble..look right between the 7/8

 

this happend last year. sorry for blurry pick but you can see the clear is bubbleing.
so i went back to the body shop and he said he has to redo the entire door.
probable from a bad prep job . the prep guy should have removed the keypad and not just taped it off. so when it was redone the owner said he has to remove it this time . i thought this happend because i used spray waxes with silicones after the door was done but the body shop owner said no not at all.. so now all is good....

 

Tom, I doubt that is from waxing the door otherwise the paint would have popped all over the door. Looks like they didn't remove the pad when they painted it and the prep wasn't very good around the pad.

 

You beat me to my post, exactly what I thought in my above post.

 

Why would they be a fool if they didn't put a timeline......could it be because it could cause adverse affects with the curing of the paint? Maybe not or maybe so.
I'm not here to have a pissing match with you. However, it has been talked about for years and years that you shouldn't and when the largest global manufacturer of automotive OEM coatings states it in their warranty disclosure then I will follow what they say. Since I'm sure they know more about it than you and I.

You're correct...but that wasn't the point.

 

i agree. i thought when it happend it was from me waxes to soon or useing silicone products but they asured me it wasnt ..

 

I am not here either to get in a pissing match, just trying to advise somone that asked a question that I have hands on knowledge about, otherwise I would never give my knowledge about something. I am sure through their testing it came about at some point where the wax might have caused a problem, maybe 1 out of a million or 1 out of a thousand. Any manufactor that does a test on a product and if they find one defect out of all the testing that is done they are going to put some type of disclaimer and/or warranty on it. Does it mean you can wax over the paint and have a problem, no.Yes they know more about chemicals then I do, never said I did, just have hands on knowledge and from conversing with reps of various companys there really should not be a problem. I never said JL had to wax the vehicle he was just getting a feel for it on the forum. I will say this and this goes for anything on the forum, if you have not used the product or had any hands on experience I do not think you should add anything to that thread or post.

 

All I have to say is why chance it JL? It's better to be safe than sorry. Is it really worth the risk to find out if you'll damage the paint or not just because you want to protect it?

Just wait the three months... it's not as big of a deal as everyone's making it to.

 

i think i waited maybe 2 months before i waxed but only because i just didnt have time i was moving at the time .

 

That's probably the best advice.

 

I hear both sides, and both have their points. There is a warning for a reason. Normally it's over the top, though. Like the warning about not getting back into your car when fueling at the gas station.

Could the waxing have an adverse effect on the paint? For sure.

Is it going to happen 100% of the time? Definitely not.

They just put it there to cover their asses. But it's also there because an adverse effect has been recorded before.

So, yes, chance does have a role in it. but the odds are in your favor that it won't be adversely affected by the wax.

 

OK guys here's where I am right now. After doing all the polishing on the passenger side (the respray), I realized just how bad the body shop messed this up. Wait til you see my pics when I'm done. Also the owner is a friend of mine and she actually withheld my fee from the body shop's payment because it's now up to me to fix it. Well I have decided that with these factors that I'm not going to put any LSP on the passenger side for a few reasons.

Number one, if by some odd chance something happened I certainly don't want this body shop to have a fall back (me) to say that the job was fine and I messed it up. It would be just my luck for a fluke thing to happen to me. Second, I really want to put a sealant on this (two coats actually) so I don't want to put wax on just the passenger side. Do I think I would be ok to just wax it, probably so but I'm going to wait a few months and have her bring it back to me and do a maint. wash and then seal that side. Thanks for all the input and this will probably be one of those questions that just go without a concrete answer because you have people that have done it both ways and both were successful. I really do appreciate the input though and it was all very helpful.

 

Sounds like typical body shop work!

 

I was told by the body shop, no wax for 6 weeks and no sealent for 3 months. I decided to ask around and apparently the paint has no "pores" it just that in the time frame the clear coat is still off gasing its chemicals or whatever it is, and using a sealent inhibits or slows this off gasing which results in the clear coat not curing. Mind you this is just what I was told by a body shop owner so who knows.

 

JL, just another data point here. When I got the S2000's front bumper resprayed, the owner - same guy who does the painting - told me to leave it alone for 6 weeks. He knows I detail and how I am about my car, so it was the first thing he told me when I came to get it.

Sounds like you made the safe play in the end though. :thumb:

 

I do some polish and final finish work for a local bodyshop.....if the paint was BAKED in a booth then there is no issues at all after 3-4 weeks to apply whatever LSP you want...if the paint was air dryed however then you should wait the full 3 months to be safe......i would use a sealant as they still allow the paint to breathe.....that whole mindset of not waxing fresh paint is OLD SCHOOL from the days where paint was not baked and needed time to fully cure and when there were solvents escaping were a large part of the drying processs.....

for those saying the paint MFR puts a warning in there warranty that is there because they never know how the paint is really being applied....as mentioned above in air dry situations opposed to full bake situations the outcome is different.....i have polished hundreds of freshly painted cars with about 1/3 of them being air dryed and the rest being booth baked....i can tell you that 2-3 days after a spray with an air dry the clear is still super soft and i have seen the solvents cause the paint to actually go dull aftere a week or so in the sun if not fully cured after only a sand and polish....i have sanded and polished baked finishes a few hours out of the booth and they are harder than a 2-3 day old air dryed job.....My .02.......